Lugnuts keep loosening - help!

    Having a weird issue where my rear lug nuts keep loosening up on their own on my TJ. Steel wheels and the same lug nuts I've always used. I can tighten them up to 100 foot-lbs with my torque wrench, and after about 100 miles, I can get 2 or 3 full turns on them. I even took it to a shop and had them rotate the tires, just to make sure it wasn't my torque wrench or something I'm doing wrong.


    This started when I put some replacement/aftermarket shafts in (D35). I noticed that the new shafts don't have the wheel studs pressed in, they thread in. I found it odd that they are not reversed thread, so that when you tighten up the lug nut, they don't back out, but apparently, that's the way they were designed. Unsure if this has anything to do with it or not, or if anyone has had a similar experience with these shafts, but I would greatly appreciate any insight anyone might have.

    I have after market shafts in my 44 that use the thread in studs, i am constantly swapping out my street tires and rims with my trail wheels, that being said I use a 110 lb. Torque stick on my impact gun and have not had any issues

    Just a guess but could be your lug nuts are bad from being over torqued (which if so could also mean your wheel studs are in similar condition).


    Try swapping just the lug nuts with those from a wheel that does not have this problem.

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    If I remember Alloy USA had a similar issue with their shafts and the thread-in studs...I never saw the issue on my set but I believe Turtle and or Artie had a set swapped out because of it. I'd make sure the studs are secured with red loctite and torqued into the shaft as what's likely happening is when you're tightening the lugnut it's actually backing the stud out slightly and over time it's working back loose.


    Edit: Expanding on Slimer's point...the issue could be exacerbated by worn/damaged lugs as if there is more resistance to spin the lug on than for the stud to spin in the shaft it's obviously going to spin the stud.


    --Ian

    Also pull everything down and make sure there is not any rust buildup or corrosion on the front and back sides of the rotor. As it wears off and moves around it can create excessive clearance. And x2 on locktite on the threads in the shafts, you figure they shouldn't have to be replaced anyway so really sticking them in there isnt gonna hurt too much.

    I think I would call the manufacturer. You report it, and log an official complaint. Its a significant safety issue that they need to correct. Also if something happens , you have proof you notified them and they may be help liable for damages. Chances are, they will ship you some fresh axles.

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    Quote from deadfeat


    I think I would call the manufacturer. You report it, and log an official complaint. Its a significant safety issue that they need to correct. Also if something happens , you have proof you notified them and they may be help liable for damages. Chances are, they will ship you some fresh axles.


    If u call, send a follow up e-mail so u have a "paper trail"


    I'd swap all lug nuts and wheels front to back to confirm that the rear studs r the problem

    Quote from jace


    Lug nuts definitely have some years/miles on them, so I will swap them out. I wonder if it could be that the new studs are too long? Gonna try some open-end lug nuts temporarily...


    Always a possibility, I ordered several replacements for my rear axle and they were 1/4 " too long, I had to sawzall them down to the length of the press ins on my front axle. They have been fine all summer

    So, bringing this back with some updates...



    I've replaced the lug nuts with new ones.
    I've verified the new studs are actually shorter than the stock ones by 1/4"
    I've replaced the brake drums.



    It turns out that the actual brake drum might not be quite sitting flush and that's why I'm having issues. I've got G2 shafts installed, and I've emailed them to see if they've heard of this before. It's almost like the face of the shaft where the wheel studs threads in is a little thicker, or the shaft is ever so slightly longer than stock. Wondering if there is a special brake drum I need to use for these shafts? Has anyone else had an issue like this? Ready to throw the stock shafts back in and keep the G2's as trail spares at this point...

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