Yeah, I'm sure I'll have to get a new axle, regardless... probably from Eastern Marine, although I'd love to get one of those sexy Timbren axle-less setups.
camping trailer build...
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probably from Eastern Marine, although I'd love to get one of those sexy Timbren axle-less setups.Had to Google that... WOW!
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they recommended 2x3" 3/16 wall box for the tongue and a-frame
I think that starting with something as big as a boat trailer will involve too much cutting... be easier to build from scratch, I think. Unless the trailer was free...
For the A-frame and tongue you could probably use one of those pull bars that are used for flat towing. I have one for flat towing my Jeep. It's sturdy enough and already together. You would just have to weld it onto your trailer. I wouldn't shy away from a boat trailer because of the cutting. Regardless of what you do there will be a lot of cutting. But unless you could get it cheaper than the cost of the metal...
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I'm wondering if it would be better to get an old boat trailer to start with. Cut it down and narrow it to the size you need. Make brackets out of metal angle to bolt the cross beams in where you want them. Then get some spindles and hubs with your Jeeps bolt pattern so the trailer wheels will fit the Jeep wheels in case something happens.Aren't most boat trailers galvanized? If so be very careful grinding and welding, the dust and fumes from that stuff are not good for you.
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Yeah but you could bolt on instead of weld. Also as long as you're in a well ventilated area it will be fine. Just stink a little
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You've probably seen this one... But that looks like a very nice unit.
http://adventuretrailers.com/sportsman/Add one of these: http://www.amazon.com/gp/produ…inkCode=as2&tag=pilo0d-20
And one of these: http://www.amazon.com/Goal-Zer…sr=1-4&keywords=Yeti+1250
That's one helluva setup!!
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If you're gonna do that you might as well go for the big bad mamajamma!
[img width=1200 height=800]http://www.earthroamer.com/wp-…0-master-with-kelci-b.jpg[/img] -
Yup, that trailer is from an arrangement with a company in Canada that imports the tents. AT builds the trailers and sends them to Canada to be used in different configurations. They only have the one model sold in the US. It's pricey, though. Over $10,000.
The EarthRoamer is cool but not really a good trail rig. Especially not the trucks, since they don't make the JK model anymore. There was one for sale at a dealer in West Chester several years ago, I think in 2008.
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Yup, that trailer is from an arrangement with a company in Canada that imports the tents. AT builds the trailers and sends them to Canada to be used in different configurations. They only have the one model sold in the US. It's pricey, though. Over $10,000.Main Line Overland is an authorized dealer and they are in West Chester.
Yea...pricey: http://adventuretrailers.com/w…014/09/kakadu-pricing.pdf -
Yeah they had a trailer at the show in Harrisburg.
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The EarthRoamer is cool but not really a good trail rig.But it would be f'in spectacular on the beach surf fishing.
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Starting price... $18,500, bet with a few goodies, hits $25k fast.
I think I would try to build one..
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Big question is, what is your budget for this build?
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A soft budget of 2000 without tent. But I'm really wanting the Timbren suspension so I might let it bump up a little.
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I had never seen a timbren setup. Had to Google it. Very nice indeed and I was surprised it isn't more expensive than it is. Very feasible for a build project. Etrailer.com has some good prices.
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A soft budget of 2000 without tent. But I'm really wanting the Timbren suspension so I might let it bump up a little.You're not that far off when you look at this. http://adventuretrailers.com/w…014/09/kakadu-pricing.pdf You get a tent with the trailer suspension you want for under $10k. Not sure about the extra costs for delivery, tags etc.
The Outer Ridge Venturer is $3000 MSRP.
http://oztrailnorthamerica.com/OR375_OR.html -
Ordered the body kit yesterday, should get it in 3 weeks. Got a lot to figure out before then, spending a lot of time on Expedition Portal browsing their trailer builds for ideas and tips.
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I think I've settled on using the Timbren suspension... it'll be their heavy duty 2000lb load version with wide tire option (8.5" from mount to hub face). I think that should be just enough room to use factory JK wheels/tires (hoping to pick them up on craigslist cheap... maybe take them off a poser Jeep at Christiana Mall if I have to). WMS should be around 58", which is narrower than the JK... hopefully resulting in less of a gas mileage hit. More drag in sand/mud/snow but I don't think I'll have to deal with that very often.
These specs (click for bigger pic) are for the standard height model. The "B" measurement is 3 13/16". They have a 4" lift model, that's 7.5". I want the trailer to have a similar ride height to the JK, but also need the tub height to be near 42" if I go with an OzTrail tent. I currently have 33" tires on the Jeep, so figure around a 16.5" hub center. The standard "springs" will net around a 20" frame height, which is around the same as the bottom of the hitch on my JK. The trailer tub is 20" height... so that should net around a 42" overall height, using 2" box steel for the frame. Perfect! Anybody able to punch holes in that plan?
I do have a concern over strength, though. The frame will bear more stress than with an axle and springs... They have a cutout in the mount for 2x2" steel to link the two mounts together, but I'm thinking that I should use thicker steel than 1/8", at least for the side rails. I'm thinking 2x3 3/16-wall for the side rails, 2x3 1/8-wall for the front and rear and 2x2 1/8-wall for cross bars (probably 3 including the one for the suspension, but that might be bolted vs welded). Not sure on the tongue yet. I guess 2x2 1/8" will be fine for the braces. Still need to research the angles, 45* or tighter? I'm drawing up a few frame designs on paper to get a feel for things. From reading, it seems that a long tongue is better for these short trailers to be able to clear the spare tire in tight turns and better control when backing.
Speaking of the tongue, I'm looking at either the Lock-N-Roll or the Max Coupler. The Max Coupler is apparently stronger, but the Lock-N-Roll is easier to hook up. Likely go with the Max Coupler. I've also started a spreadsheet so I'll keep track of parts, prices and weight (in theory).
I'm thinking a military desert tan type color for the exterior of the body/fenders and some sort of bedliner for the interior, maybe Monstaliner. And I'm leaning toward POR15 for the frame unless somebody has a better idea for that. I like that it's a lot stronger than paint and don't have to worry as much about it chipping and rusting. Just gotta make sure my pants are zipped when I'm brushing it onto the frame.
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