D-30 axles

Quote from keith_c

Another question, are you guys running greasable u-joints?

I know it's an ongoing debate, but IMO a solid cross will be stronger than a hollow one.

My opinion on the greaseable vs not greaseable debate is that there are valid arguments both ways, and the answer for any individual depends on how you wheel your rig. For those who love the mud, I think a greasable u-joint is the way to go, because the process of greasing them displaces any water or muck that may have infiltrated it, and besides, mudding is not as stressful on components as crawling. For us rock crawlers, solid u-joints are the choice because there is little concern about muck infiltration, and we need all the structural strength we can get. I repeat: my opinion.

So to answer the question, I used to run greasable until I outgrew playing in the mud.

Normally the ears on the shaft egg out and allow the caps to walk which causes u-joint failure. I could break stock d30 shafts and u-joints at will. Once I swapped to chromoly shafts with full circle clips I stopped breaking joints and shafts. Eventually I did break a chromoly shaft, but it broke at the locker and I knew damn well it was going to break doing what I was doing.

http://completeoffroad.com/i-3…nts-27-spline-w24110.html

27 spline

Quote from shorebird

I'm going to order the axles from complete offroad

I'm curious who the manufacturer is.

They don't say they aren't imports, just that they are "NOT cheap import axles".

if you call they will tell you. Most likely Yukon. That's what the jk shafts were.

http://eastcoastgearsupply.com…omoly-axle-shaft-kit.html

Don't buy Mosers, they wont cover axles under warranty if the spline count is under 33.

Quote from deadfeat

Don't buy Mosers, they wont cover axles under warranty if the spline count is under 33.

Pretty sure they don't make axles for the D30.

I have heard from a good source that Yukon, AlloyUSA, TenFactory, and Nitro do not all have their own manufacturing facilities. They all cross-source from the same manufacturers (two, I think), so essentially there is no difference between them.

Yukon owns there own foundries in india but u still might not get shafts from their foundry. All the shafts r gonna be indian or chinese unsless they r dutchman and at least double the price.

Randy it makes me happy u r upgrading. Just need to get u a sye and cv kit :).

Revolution are USA made and use the 1350 u-joint.

https://www.4lowparts.com/shop…-front-axle-kit-tj-lj-xj/

Don't know if they would fit on the YJ.

And a lifetime warranty.

Anyone have any experience with those RCV shafts? The are a sh1t-ton of cash, but if they are really as awesome as they say they are it might be worth saving for them.

Not as good on the 27 spline d30 because the shafts and cv r stronger then the ring gear. U really dont want that. Real nice on a d44 though.

Also a 1350 is a drivshaft joint. Didnt look at the link but doesnt sound right. All alloy shafts should be a 297x of 760(newer number) joint but maybe some one is making something odd?

I am happy with my AlloyUSA Dana 44 rear shafts. I know its not the same as D30 fronts. Lifetime replacement. Not a bad warranty,

Quote from astape

Also a 1350 is a drivshaft joint. Didnt look at the link but doesnt sound right. All alloy shafts should be a 297x of 760(newer number) joint but maybe some one is making something odd?

Same as the JK D44.

http://www.drivetrainamerica.c…ep-jk-rubicon-68017182aa/

Quote from astape

Not as good on the 27 spline d30 because the shafts and cv r stronger then the ring gear. U really dont want that.

That kinda speaks to a point I was making earlier. If I am in a situation where something's gotta give, I believe that the ring gear would be the next weakest link after the u-joints and axle shaft ears. I would rather it be the u-joint that fails than having to worry that some broken off ring gear teeth might find themselves a way to damage my ARB. And for me, it's a lot easier to replace an axle shaft than a ring gear.

Quote from astape

Also a 1350 is a drivshaft joint. Didnt look at the link but doesnt sound right. All alloy shafts should be a 297x of 760(newer number) joint but maybe some one is making something odd?

They pitch it as if it is a huge upgrade - is it not? They say "...substantial strength increase over the smaller 5-760X joint and allows extra clearance for tighter turning." We all use parts that are re-purposed from their intended use. They make it sound good, anyway. I'd be interesting in knowing if it actually is a better setup.

Quote from altierior

That kinda speaks to a point I was making earlier. If I am in a situation where something's gotta give, I believe that the ring gear would be the next weakest link after the u-joints and axle shaft ears. I would rather it be the u-joint that fails than having to worry that some broken off ring gear teeth might find themselves a way to damage my ARB. And for me, it's a lot easier to replace an axle shaft than a ring gear.

U are missing our point that its not the joints that r failing on your factory shafts its the ears. The ears r stretching and causing the u joint caps to spit out and the whole thing explodes. The alloy shafts dont stretch as easy so the joint lasts much longer. The system is still weaker then the ring gear but overall much stronger.

When u upgrade the shafts u dont typically loose universals.