If you have a 2 inch hole on the bottom of the frame, you aren't going to be able to just replace the bolt. The best repair will replace the bottom edge of the frame including the inserts either with the Auto Rust Sections or welding in some homemade sections. Let me know if you need a hand.
Clutch Replacement
-
-
I think you need a few more muffler clamps too
-
He's right about that, but you didn't say where the 2" hole is. Hopefully in the skidplate. If the frame is not rusted out, then you could use weld-in threaded inserts to replace the nutserts. Another trick is to weld a bolt to a piece of bar stock and fish it into place through a frame opening to hang through the hole so the threads are hanging out. The bar stock acts like a wrench to hold the bolt for tightening.
Allstar 18552 is an example of the weld-in. I used these in my build and they are awesome. -
Yeah, the holes I was referring to are in the skid plate. If they were in the frame, this would be a whole different level of .
The frame seems OK in these areas, but I'm going to take a better look at some questionable areas and prime and paint everything before it goes back together.
I did find a skid plate but the weather is throwing a wrench in my plans to grab it tonight.
-
Here's what I was thinking of doing to address the nutsert issue: http://www.shop.blackmagicbrak…ate-Nutsert-Kit-6HDNS.htm
Mated with new stainless steel bolts.
Or else I'll fish the bolts through the frame like you've mentioned.
-
Here's what I was thinking of doing to address the nutsert issue: http://www.shop.blackmagicbrak…ate-Nutsert-Kit-6HDNS.htmMated with new stainless steel bolts.
Or else I'll fish the bolts through the frame like you've mentioned.
Pretty sure Blaine had those custom made, as you can't find anything off the shelf with that large flange.
Pricey, but well worth it IMO.
-
Oh, and forget the SS bolts. They are close to grade 5 in strength.
You want to go grade 8.
-
Yeah, I've gotten info/advice from Blaine in the past and I think quite a few people have gone this route. As I'm only replacing one right now I've got them on order from him.
And grade 8. Got it. Thanks.
-
A few years back he had found the company that made those wide flanged nutserts for Chrysler and they would do a run of them but it had to be 10,000 pieces.
Don't know if he worked a deal with them or he found somebody else.
All you can get from Chrysler are the small flanged ones that they use now on other stuff.
-
Well we'll see. Placed an order with Blaine. I've gotten info and advice from him on a few different occasions over the years, so happy to send him some business.
Weather has thrown a wrench in plans to get the replacement skid tonight, but hopefully I can get the old one off and keep moving forward otherwise.
-
Well we'll see. Placed an order with Blaine. I've gotten info and advice from him on a few different occasions over the years, so happy to send him some business.Weather has thrown a wrench in plans to get the replacement skid tonight, but hopefully I can get the old one off and keep moving forward otherwise.
Oh yeah.
He helped me with a brake issue one time that I doubt few could have.
A very smart and straight up guy, and he knows his Jeep stuff.
-
[img width=1200 height=675]http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.co…ff6babd1394bf26cccb4c.jpg[/img]
The hole at the upper left is supposed to be just big enough for a bolt.
[img width=1200 height=675]http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.co…12576251ebb3ff5f15b34.jpg[/img]
-
I saw your throwout bearing on the other thread! Looks like my cluster gear. The glue doesn't work.
-
Lol. Given the number of pieces I don't think I would have had the patience anyway.
New clutch and bearings are in place. Have to see if I can get the transmission bolted up and everything back together this morning.
-
So it's mobile again. New clutch feels very light compared to the previous one, but it got us around the neighborhood without a problem.
But I broke some other stuff during the repair. I think my transfer case linkage is jacked up so I will probably look to replace that. Looking at the linkages from Novak and advance adapters, they both seem to be good upgrades.
And one of my front driveshaft u joints came apart. Should I just replace with oe unit, or is this something to upgrade as well?
-
So it's mobile again. New clutch feels very light compared to the previous one, but it got us around the neighborhood without a problem.But I broke some other stuff during the repair. I think my transfer case linkage is jacked up so I will probably look to replace that. Looking at the linkages from Novak and advance adapters, they both seem to be good upgrades.
And one of my front driveshaft u joints came apart. Should I just replace with oe unit, or is this something to upgrade as well?
Look at the Novak cable unit. It's sweet.
Chrysler/Jeep doesn't make u-joints.
Get Spicer from RockAuto or somewhere local.
-
I did the savvy cable shifter last year probably one of the best upgrades
-
I looked at the cable unit, but I was actually leaning towards this one:
-
This is the best $180 I have spent on my TJ. No linkages to adjust. If you do a body lift later no need to do anything to the cable its already set
-
I'm still considering the other unit, even though it's more work to install. I like that the direct linkage does not mount to the body, and frankly, I think it will give a cleaner look with the center console removed.
As for the body lift, I already have one. That's part of the reason I'm looking at this. That and you know, the linkage is all farkled up.
Participate now!
Don’t have an account yet? Register yourself now and be a part of our community!