XJ Lift Question

    I am putting a lift on my XJ in the next couple of weeks. Starting out with just a 2-inch OME, but I am wondering how much lift can I get away with with only a T-case drop before I start getting vibration? Actually, I was also wondering if I should expect any vibration with the 2 inch lift if I have the T-scase drop?

    add the bb, then see If you need the drop, If you have vibes, you need It, If you dont, your fine and you save some ground clearance and a few bucks...General rule of thumb is 3" like Andrew said but It varies from XJ to XJ....

    02&#39; F250 SD w/ 285&#39;s and 17x9 1079&#39;s<br />99&#39; XJ w/ 8&quot; and 35&#39;s - GONE!<br /><br />I miss wheeling! :(

    the new xjs have shorter rr ds so it takes less lift to get vibes ....mine is a 1991 with a d35 so it has one of the longer rr ds's o.n it, I have a 3" rustys full leaf pack kit that actually came out to a little over 5" and there are no vibes felt.

    It's A Jeep Thing...You Wouldn't Understand
    *bLaTaNt DiSrEgarD oFfRoAd*

    the OME is a nice lift :) I think it usually gives more than 2 inches, though. if you drop the t-case, you'll have a good chance at avoiding the vibes, but every XJ is different.

    Jerry / Whatevah

    2020 Gladiator Mojave - 33" Falken mud tires, LoD side steps, Zroadz bed rack, Quadratec QRC winch bumper, Superwinch EPi 9.0, Kleinn on-board air, Kleinn air horns, lots of lights, Yaesu ham radio with GPS tracker.

    Gone- 2012 JK Rubicon with stuff. Long gone- Long-arm 2001 Cherokee with stuff.

    Cool, thanks for the advice. I guess I will just installt he lift without it first and see what happens.


    Hey I noticed one of the bolts on each side of the t-case crossmember is inside the unibody coming from the top down. What is the story with that and how do you deal with it when trying to install a T-case drop?

    That bolt your talkin about will come out.Its like all thread at least mine was.Just get a regular bolt to put back in.I have 6" with 1"drop on the t case and no vibes. :peace:

    Quote from "92WestShady"

    Ohh so they are just threaded studs. I guess I could just grab then with vise grips and back them out then?


    yea the vise grips should work, Just be careful not to break It off or strip It...might be good to use some PB

    02&#39; F250 SD w/ 285&#39;s and 17x9 1079&#39;s<br />99&#39; XJ w/ 8&quot; and 35&#39;s - GONE!<br /><br />I miss wheeling! :(

    Nice Ideas.


    Turns out the lift came this evening. I am gonna take a personal day from work tomorrow and put the sucker on. I know it is the middle of the week but if anyone is off and interested in helping that would be great, otherwise I am going it alone.


    I was wondering about the rear swaybar, can I reconnect it after lifting or is it safe to discard it? I would like to keep it on for now if possible.


    Any other suggestions for things to watch out for that might be a pain in the butt when it comes to lifting an XJ?


    Thanks for all your help so far.

    you can toss the rear swaybar, the "Up Country" packacge XJs didn't even have them. I'll be taking mine off when it gets warm enough my fingers don't freeze. (working outdoors)


    things to look out for... RUST! you've probably already gotten started before you read this, but I'd keep a can or two of PB Blaster/Liquid Wrench laying around if you get into any tough spots... soak the annoying part, go grab a soda and come back in a couple minutes.

    Jerry / Whatevah

    2020 Gladiator Mojave - 33" Falken mud tires, LoD side steps, Zroadz bed rack, Quadratec QRC winch bumper, Superwinch EPi 9.0, Kleinn on-board air, Kleinn air horns, lots of lights, Yaesu ham radio with GPS tracker.

    Gone- 2012 JK Rubicon with stuff. Long gone- Long-arm 2001 Cherokee with stuff.

    If It still dont budge, and your not using air tools....spray the PB then tap the nut a few times so It soaks down in the threads...

    02&#39; F250 SD w/ 285&#39;s and 17x9 1079&#39;s<br />99&#39; XJ w/ 8&quot; and 35&#39;s - GONE!<br /><br />I miss wheeling! :(

    I got the lift on yesterday, I struggled a little bit with get the shock bushings pre-compressed on the OME shocks and the Rusty's Adjustable track bar I purchased doesn't really fit a Cherokee with only 2" of lift like they say it does so my axle is just a tad off center.


    I haven't installed a T-case drop yet, but on the 2 studded bolts should I back them out counterclockwise, "left loosey" or are the upper portions of the studs reverse threaded?


    Also with slightly stiffer springs now, I went on a little test drive last night and noticed a rather noticeable thumping/clunking sounds in the rear end over the speed bumps in my neighborhood but all my shock and spring bolts are tight, anyone have any ideas on what this might be?

    I'd say hold off on the tcase drop, unless you need It...If you dont really need and theres no vibes Its Just a loss of ground clearance...


    as for the springs, their pry Just stiff like you said...Is It a brand new full pack? Give It like a week to break in and It shouldnt be so bad...

    02&#39; F250 SD w/ 285&#39;s and 17x9 1079&#39;s<br />99&#39; XJ w/ 8&quot; and 35&#39;s - GONE!<br /><br />I miss wheeling! :(

    I think I am gonna drop the T-case, to elviate any monor vibs and since I don't go off road too much, I am not really concerned much with clearance.


    On another note, do you guys know definitively the proper fluids to use in the 2000 Cherokee AW4 Automatic Transmission and the NP231 Transfer Case?

    The Rusty's Adj. Track bar was a bit too long at its shortest setting, so I just Jacked the Jeep and drooped the axle just a tad to get it installed. I guess I could drill another hole in the bracket a littel farther away too down the road but it seems the off-centerness, if that is a word, is not really noticeable, you really have to stare at it.


    Why do you ask?

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