I'm finally taking my diff's apart on Saturday to figure out what I broke last week at RC. I suspect I broke teeth off the ring & pinion in the front. If this is the case, can I remove the R&P, close it back up, fill it with diff fluid, and use only 2-Hi until I am able to get the new R&P installed? If this is possible, will I have to remove the carrier to get the R&P out?
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you need to remove the carrier to take the ring gear off..... I would only pull the ring gear as taking the pinion out will give you a large hole in the front axle....... Just disconnect the front driveshaft
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If this is the case, can I remove the R&P, close it back up, fill it with diff fluid, and use only 2-Hi until I am able to get the new R&P installed?Isn't the front axle on an XJ always engaged? I thought the torque was constantly split between the front and rear wheels, depending on which axle is slipping the most. If so, then I would think you can not just drive around on 1 axle (whether it be the front or rear) because the t-case will send the power to the diff without the ring gear (thinking the wheels are slipping).
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Isn't the front axle on an XJ always engaged? I thought the torque was constantly split between the front and rear wheels, depending on which axle is slipping the most. If so, then I would think you can not just drive around on 1 axle (whether it be the front or rear) because the t-case will send the power to the diff without the ring gear (thinking the wheels are slipping).
only when the 242 transfer case is set to full-time 4wd. he and I both have the 231 tcase which doesn't have that option. the front hubs cannot be disconnected, so they spin the axle shafts, which spin the stuff inside the diff and the driveshaft. -
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Just disconnect the front driveshaft
*Hypothetically speaking*: if I didn't know how to do this, how would I do this?
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well hypothetically there will be 4 bolts that hold It to the axle pinion side and 4 bolts that hold It to the transfer case....unbolt the 8 bolts total and you'll have a driveshaft in your hand.
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well hypothetically there will be 4 bolts that hold It to the axle pinion side and 4 bolts that hold It to the transfer case....unbolt the 8 bolts total and you'll have a driveshaft in your hand.Hypothetically speaking, you know how to do this now.
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that solves It all....
Ummm no it doesn't, unless he has the warn hub kit on the front end, the ring and pinion still spins when the tires go round and round.... If the ring gear is bad enough, it could possibly break more teeth even if the driveshaft is disconnected and cause even more damage to the internals of the carrier...
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Ummm no it doesn't, unless he has the warn hub kit on the front end, the ring and pinion still spins when the tires go round and round.... If the ring gear is bad enough, it could possibly break more teeth even if the driveshaft is disconnected and cause even more damage to the internals of the carrier...
I'm not contesting that, I agree but I thought we had already agreed he was going to pull the ring gear and leave the pinion in anways. I was speaking in regards to the 231-242 Issue with the power going from axle to trans case, pulling the shaft would solve that
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pull tires, brakes, hub/shafts together. pull ujoint from shafts, reinstall hubs w/stub shafts, reinstall brakes, reinstall tires make sure a rag is stuff in the axle tube to keep dirt and debris from getting in there. that should tide you over until you have time to repair it.
chris -
Surfrider and I were talking about your issues. I'm pretty sure he said you were locked in front.
Keep in mind that with the LockRight (or any lunchbox locker) it is normal to be able to turn the front driveshaft a fair amount before you feel resistance. This is just indicative of those types of lockers. Now if we are talking a half turn on the driveshaft, then yes there may be internal problems. You may have sheered the pins also.
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Surfrider and I were talking about your issues. I'm pretty sure he said you were locked in front.Keep in mind that with the LockRight (or any lunchbox locker) it is normal to be able to turn the front driveshaft a fair amount before you feel resistance. This is just indicative of those types of lockers. Now if we are talking a half turn on the driveshaft, then yes there may be internal problems. You may have sheered the pins also.
I have a lock-right and my pinion's backlash is the same with the locker as it was without. Not saying you are wrong just throwing my words in.
Zeke - Just take it the cover off, take the carrier and all out, inspect your pinion and carrier. If something is wrong do as Chris (Quadna) said. He told me to do the same when mine grenaded and it worked just fine. If everything is ok, then put it all back together and move on...
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I have a lock-right and my pinion's backlash is the same with the locker as it was without. Not saying you are wrong just throwing my words in.
Zeke - Just take it the cover off, take the carrier and all out, inspect your pinion and carrier. If something is wrong do as Chris (Quadna) said. He told me to do the same when mine grenaded and it worked just fine. If everything is ok, then put it all back together and move on...
It's not the pinion backlash that is affected, it's between the locker and the axle shafts.
The lockright install manual specifically mentions this.
But I agree, a visual inspection will tell all.
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All this info is incredibly useful. Thanks to all. I'll be starting this in about an hour or 2, and I'll probably have pictures & more questions soon =)
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FWIW I don't know the symptoms but I'd have to agree w/ Keith...most automatic lockers will have a fair amount of play in the driveshaft. My rear detroit can sometimes have almost 1/4 turn when it's between teeth.
Also, if you're removing the ring gear the driveshaft can stay...all the newer 231's disengage the front driveline entirely when in 2high making it possible to simply pull the ring gear and leave the rest intact.
--Ian
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*grin* the solution was pretty suprising... right, Zeke?
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*grin* the solution was pretty suprising... right, Zeke?Turns out it was my caliper. The top bolt was stripped out before I went to RC. Apparantly the loc-tite didn't hold it in, it fell out, and the bottom one came out as well, resulting in a very noisy "floating caliper" banging around
Ended up putting heli-coils in the stripped out holes, and I will eventually eventually replace the steering knuckle. Thanks to everyone that helped, both in person and over the phone!
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