axle tech.

    found these specs on pirate while surfing this afternoon though it might help some people out on which axle to swap to when going bigger. i know that i have decided to stay with my dana 35 as i have it geared i am just going to put yukon axles in it and build a truss to support the weight of the 35's i am gonna run. i mean hell the dana 35 and 44's shafts break at like the same point, so why not right and with my 4 banger it will be fine as long as i am easy on it. and i am gonna get a selectable locker so i am open when i dont need teh traction. but on with the info.



    The axle shaft strength tested by Warn Ind:
    F8.8= 6,500 (lb. ft.)
    D44= 4,600-5,000 (lb. ft.)
    D35C= 4,000-4,300 (lb. ft.)
    -------------------------------
    COT: Continuous output torque rating
    MOT: Maximum output torque rating


    (Numbers from January edition of Fourwheeler, page 60.)
    Dana 35 rear axle COT: 870 MOT: 3480
    Dana 44 rear axle COT: 1100 MOT: 4460
    Ford 8.8 28spline COT: 1250 MOT: 4600
    Ford 8.8 31spline COT: 1360 MOT: 5100
    Dana60 semifloat COT: 1500 MOT: 5500]

    bLaTaNt DiSrEgArD<br /><br /><br />TJ 98 4 banger gone but not fogotten<br />WJ 02 limited- Do all vehicle &quot;QUICK THROW A LOCKER AT IT!!!&quot;

    Edited once, last by omaha ().

    everyone sees the shaft problems or the housing problem. no one really talks about the carrier problems he is planning on a ox carrier the last I heard so that would be a upgrade. the ring and pinion could break that is true but hell if we were all tring to build unbrekable axles then we would all have 2.5 ton rockwells with 2 in overson shafts gun drilled with the disc break up grade...


    its just that not everyone wheels that way or that hard they have just contiously heard how weak there jeep is.....



    so with that being said post I am going to start a carnage thread adn have everyone post there carnage/breakage from trail rides and the level trail they were on specs of there rig and so forth

    yeah that is about the jist of it i am gonna get an OX locker for the rear and get Yukon Shafts.

    bLaTaNt DiSrEgArD<br /><br /><br />TJ 98 4 banger gone but not fogotten<br />WJ 02 limited- Do all vehicle &quot;QUICK THROW A LOCKER AT IT!!!&quot;

    true but for me to build a 35 to where i want it or a 8.8 or 9in there is a big difference in price.

    bLaTaNt DiSrEgArD<br /><br /><br />TJ 98 4 banger gone but not fogotten<br />WJ 02 limited- Do all vehicle &quot;QUICK THROW A LOCKER AT IT!!!&quot;

    Ask 2000sahara and meeper what happens to Super 35 detroits (which are about 2.5 times the strength of a dana 35 ox)


    My total witnessed it been there helped them out dana 35 carnage


    2 shafts


    5 carriers....



    My total witnessed it been there heplped them out dana 44 carnage


    1 carrier (happened to be an ox)

    yeah i see what you are saying but i am not sure that i am gonna be as hard on my stuff as they are. also i am hoping that my 4 banger will help out with me not having the power of the 4.0 Also i have seen more and more 35s that are lasting in posts on other sites.

    bLaTaNt DiSrEgArD<br /><br /><br />TJ 98 4 banger gone but not fogotten<br />WJ 02 limited- Do all vehicle &quot;QUICK THROW A LOCKER AT IT!!!&quot;

    Dana60 semifloat COT: 1500 MOT: 5500


    I thought 60's were full floating? and which spline count is that for? I think 60's are either 35 or 30 splines.
    the 44 in my RC is full floating.
    Maybe I just know for full size trucks (3/4-1 ton)?

    Im with turtle on this one. I spent the money on the Super 35 and it exploded the Detroit and completely sheared the splines on the shaft. You can ask Ian and Andrew about it, they were there when it broke, I was crawling on flat land. Had i just taken the money and put it toward the 44 in the first place i would not have had a $2400 dollar credit card debt for a year. If your interested, i still have the detroit you can look at. It makes a nice paper wieght. Also like Jwalk said, the c-clips are no good. If you bust the axle on a 44, at least you can drive off the trail, let alone drive home. My advice is save your money. If your not gonna wheel as hard as Jwalk or turtle, then why get lockers in the first place?

    2000 Sahara, All custom...
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    Quote from omaha


    yeah i see what you are saying but i am not sure that i am gonna be as hard on my stuff as they are. also i am hoping that my 4 banger will help out with me not having the power of the 4.0 Also i have seen more and more 35s that are lasting in posts on other sites.


    They may be lasting but do you actually know what they have done to make it last? do they run blacks but take all by-passes??? If there is one piece of advice/ point that I can stress about all the mistakes I made with my jeep and all the money I seemingly wasted on stuff is make a decision as to what your long term goal is and stick to it..... If you absolutely want to be locked buy a lunch-box for the front and save your pennies for an axle that is acceptable to be wheeled on 35's.... I have seen stock 44's selling for $700.00 add a ring gear and a used detroit and you can build and axle for around $1250-$1500.00 If you get the ox and the Yukon shafts you are right at a grand... so save for another 4-6 months....

    Quote from omaha


    i am not sure that i am gonna be as hard on my stuff as they are.


    Re-read what you typed. That also means you are not sure that you WON'T be as hard. No one KNOWS for certain how hard they will wheel each day. A blue trail can break you just like a black trail, although the chances for breaking are better on the black trail.


    Look at it this way: You told me your plans are to build a reliable rig that you can drive out to Moab, wheel it, and then drive home. But sometimes things just happen. I certainly didn't plan on having a rock work its way up past the bumper, between the radiator and drag link, and hitting my fan a few weeks ago....but it happened. You've never been to Moab so you can't plan for the trail difficulty.


    Stick to your initial goal about hitting Moab and don't compromise your chances. It's an ambitious goal but a good one.

    Member since 2000

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    Edited once, last by Slimer ().

    Quote from Slimer

    You've never been to Moab so you can't plan for the trail difficulty.


    Stick to your initial goal about hitting Moab and don't compromise your chances. It's an ambitious goal but a good one.


    NOT TO BE A PAIN....I've never been out to Moab either, but from what I'm reading there are trails I can do right now if I wanted to. Now suppper difficult, but there is a thread on the ROF where they talk about wheeling stock rubi's with BB out there. There are some trails that are super difficult, and there are some that are not.....


    Here's the thread Im refrencing -- http://www.rubiconownersforum.…bb2/viewtopic.php?t=40851 (remember that these guys are in Rubi's with 44's, but still)


    I plan on going out there sooner or later, but I'm planning on towing my heep out there in case I break. I would like to do it now, but I want to get a better axle than the D35 in it......I just don't even want to take the chance and go to a 44 or a 8.8.

    There are stock or slightly modified FJ's hitting Hell's Canyon at Moab (thread, pics, video on ROF) so don't think you need a beast of a Jeep to run all the trails there. Most importantly, make sure you have a good spotter and you should be fine. I think everyone can agree that driving style really determines equipment reliability until you get to some pretty gnarly trails. No offense to anyone intended but take for instance the guy running with the Black group at the RC JFJ run in the Yellow TJ. Probably broke ring and pinion in the rear end for no good reason other than how he drove which was very heavy on the throttle. Certainly you can reduce your chances of breakage but why go crazy on the build until you really know what may cause you the grief in terms of equipment failure?


    Talk to some people that run the trails you are looking to hit and see what they suggest. They will know what needs to be upgraded vs what is overkill but sounds impressive to say when you tell others...


    Again, just my 2 cents... ;D


    DaMutt, can you find us a source for a 2.5 ton rockwell group buy? ;)

    2 Wagoneer d44 $400
    ball joints, brakes, seals, etc. $150
    bracket kits for tj brackets $700
    lockers and gears are a wash
    $1250 for front and rear 44's or you can spend a few hunderd less to still run a 35c.

    dont forget teh cost to install said bracket kit as not everyone can weld....... whats that like another $500. then of corse not everyone can install ball joints so there is the labor fee for that. then there is the fact that some already upgraded alittle. I dont condon upgradeing the hell out of a dana 35 but then again if you arnt breaking it why throw alot of money at something different. the majority of the people that wheel in Deja do not need to have jeeps built to run with the slow and stupid or with me. they run normal trail rides and have there testosterone levels in check. they know when to stop and ask for help and have a tendency to not hold it on the floor.


    there is a reason that I have started steering people from axle upgrades in the recent past and that is because they are so worried that they are going to break but never have. case in point scabs and matty. I know both of them alittle and neither of them seem to need a 8.8 or a dana 44 rear but both of them had been e-scared in to the requirement to upgrade. I havent wheel with chris but I dont think that a 44 front is a required upgrade. but he may want to look at the rear. he has done alot of research on other sights that has lead him to beilve that if he drives his tj correctly with a properly built 35 then he should be ok for his style of driveing. I think he may be right.



    as far as the 44s cost. well those that need 44s probably need 60s and those the need 60s need 60s with alloy shafts and hell they may need 2.5 rockwells. some of us have a need for bigger better faster harder. some dont. I am tring to make my suggestions to people based on that info from them.


    I wasted alot of money building my rig on dana 44s. I am know on 1 tons and have been tring to deceide if I need to go coils and long arms cause I bent a spring on my 2nd trip out. it never ends for me cause I want the perfect jeep that can run anytrail but then again I was bored 80% of the last trip cause my jeep could be driven by anyone on the black trails we were on and they wouldnt have had a problem


    people have to realize that blue trails are hard for 33s and blacks are hard for 35s the only difference between the 2 is the rating. they are just as hard if you are built for the trail to be hard ove build and they all get easy then you need to find something harder or do like the comp guys were doing for awhile and build a second rig on 33s with 1 locker and go do some rec wheeling.......



    with that being said anyone want to trade me jeeps looking for a tj with 33s 1 locker and skids 4.0 and auto....

    well i am still leaning towards the 35 since i can make it a non c-clip, and put discs on it.(i belive this is right) also i am leaning towards a selectable locker so i can turn it off when i want and not have the added stress when i dont need it. I am also pretty sure that i will not be running reds as i drive my jeep everyday on the road. i just dont see the need for me to step up to a bigger axle.

    bLaTaNt DiSrEgArD<br /><br /><br />TJ 98 4 banger gone but not fogotten<br />WJ 02 limited- Do all vehicle &quot;QUICK THROW A LOCKER AT IT!!!&quot;

    Quote from omaha


    well i am still leaning towards the 35 since i can make it a non c-clip, and put discs on it.(i belive this is right) also i am leaning towards a selectable locker so i can turn it off when i want and not have the added stress when i dont need it. I am also pretty sure that i will not be running reds as i drive my jeep everyday on the road. i just dont see the need for me to step up to a bigger axle.


    Omaha, I really think you need to step back and think about what you are saying. Disk brakes on a 35??? That's another $450. Selectable locker is around $600 or $700. It brings a whole new meaning to "polishing a turd". You might be overthinking this a bit. I hate to see you waste hard earned money. I've been down this road.

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