2" Body Lift: What to Consider?

    My 6 cylinder auto 98 TJ currently has a 2" suspension lift. A recent picture is below. I think I'd like to add a 2" body lift, but I need a little schooling on the subject. :bang: I'm not a rock crawler at heart, but my guess is that a 2" body lift will give me a little extra clearance (piece of mind) in case I want to do some trail rides with the club. But I know it can't be as simple as slapping on some coil spacers. What key parts are affected by a body lift? Steering? Tranny? Hope this isn't an old stale subject for you guys, but I leafed through the forum and didn't see any posts on this subject.


    <img src="http://www.delawareja.com/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=8958&g2_GALLERYSID=14dd62ef685024e3c01f4f71506fa4bb" alt="Jeep front side view1" />

    When engaged in conversation with a fool, be sure he is not similarly engaged.
    Chief, DEJA Grammar Police

    Edited once, last by Chief57 ().

    From the picture you posted your TJ currently has a 2" Budget Boost on it. (ie coil spacers) A True suspension lift is much more involved then coin spacers. With that being said you can still add a Body Lift but most people here will tell you to not go with a 2" lift. It add's a lot more stress to the body mounts and in the case of an accident can sheer off the bolts associated. My first truck ran a 3" BL along with a 7" suspension lift and once while offroading I hit something and came to an abrubt stop and sheered off 3 bolts that held my bed on. Yes they were grade 8 bolts also.


    If I were you, you may want to look into a true 3 or 4 inch lift or just add a JKS 1.25" BL.


    Just a thought. :shrug:

    Former V.P. (2006-2007)
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    Quote from Chief57


    My 6 cylinder auto 98 TJ currently has a 2" suspension lift.



    What size tires are you running now ?
    A JKS BL and BMML
    will clear 33's . More than enough to enjoy a trail ride .
    The JKS kit is 1-1/4 thats about max for a BL IMO
    11 mounts on a TJ , and the transfer case shifter linkage will prob. need adjustment .
    It'll take a few hours in to install
    Good writeup can be found HERE


    HTH

    With a 1" body lift you're safe, a 2" is a gray area, and 3" a no-no. Reason I say this is the higher you go, more is required. For instance: the radiator fan shroud is mounted to the body while the fan is coming out of the engine, which is mounted to the frame. Trimming is required so that the fan doesn't chew it up and get damaged in the process. Another issue, transmission and transfer case operation. Depending on linkage operation and routing, bracketry may be needed to allow for the increase in height. Another thing, with manual transmissions, the shifter will be needed to lengthened and bent (insert torch here) to allow you to use 2nd, 4th, and R.


    Not to mention the fact of the "space" you see between the body and frame.


    Body lifts are cheap ways to run bigger rubber. You pay for what you get. Like stated above, just get an actual suspension lift and not sink extra money in it

    another thing to consider is the material used in the body mount spacers. the 2" and 3" body lifts are a very hard plastic. the Daystar lift and the JKS lift are both a durethane type thing, so it's a little softer and will absorb a little more vibrations that the plastic lifts will transfer into the body.


    I would never recommend a 2" or higher lift, but I've got no problems with the durethane 1" lifts. in fact, eventually you'll need a body lift to install some special skid plates and such if you get into serious offroading.

    Jerry / Whatevah

    2020 Gladiator Mojave - 33" Falken mud tires, LoD side steps, Zroadz bed rack, Quadratec QRC winch bumper, Superwinch EPi 9.0, Kleinn on-board air, Kleinn air horns, lots of lights, Yaesu ham radio with GPS tracker.

    Gone- 2012 JK Rubicon with stuff. Long gone- Long-arm 2001 Cherokee with stuff.

    Well, I thought I had a 2" suspension lift. After reading all the various replies I ran out to the garage and tried to identify it. All I can see is this on one of the shocks: Skyjacker Hydro 7000. So, I've based my initial post on the thought that I didn't want to get rid of an existing suspension lift. I just wanted to complement it.


    I see from everyone's input that I need to stay clear of a 2" body lift, and I should go with a soft compound product if possible to absorb shock. That about it?

    When engaged in conversation with a fool, be sure he is not similarly engaged.
    Chief, DEJA Grammar Police

    I had that same 2" skyjacker lift until just recently.... That, and a 1" BL... I just upgraded to a 3.5" Rubicon Express lift and I think I'm done for now... I'd get a 1" - 2" BL at most, but the real clearance comes from the actual suspension lift... The BL lifts the tub off the frame, but not the frame off the ground like a suspension lift... It does add clearance for skids as mentioned...


    How's the ride on your BB life? Mine was shaking the fillings out of my head... that's why I went to a real lift with new springs etc... made a huge difference to me...

    The REAL clearence comes from bigger tires (diff. will still sit low with stocks even with a 4" lift), as said before a BL is a cheap way to get bigger tires w/o too much cutting, which gives the clearance. Its really a catch 22 of sorts. You want to gain clearance by running bigger tires, you use the BL to do so, you sacrifice strength in the Body mounts. That being said, when I first got my 90 YJ about 3 years ago, I bought a used 2" off a friend for 20 bucks, and he helped me put it on, and I've been fine, haven't noticed any kind of difference as far as the tub shifting or vibrating more than without. The only thing that really bothers me is when you look at the back you can see the blocks, but I'm thinking about fabbing a bumper anyway, maybe I'll just make it about 2" taller. ;D :welder:

    OK, it's time for a little sidebar topic: I don't know what "BB" means. (I understand that BL means body lift.)


    Also, I'm running 33 x 10.50 tires.


    When I first started using the DEJA forum a couple of months ago, someone said that my lift was an economy lift. I've never known any other lift, but I believe it. Going over small bumps on a regular paved street is jarring. I guess the upshot of all this is that I need to replace the cheapo 2" suspension lift (totally?) with a higher quality 3" suspension lift, and then maybe add in a 1" BL for good measure. Seems like that's a common plan. Right?

    When engaged in conversation with a fool, be sure he is not similarly engaged.
    Chief, DEJA Grammar Police

    BB = budget boost


    Budget boots usually consist of four 2" coil spacers (not all are a true 2 inches), and if you buy a kit you can get four longer shocks and longer bumpstops as well. Some people just do the coil spacers and retain their stock shocks/bumpstops, but I think if you are going to do a budget boost it's best if you just do a whole kit. Real lift kits give you longer coils instead of spacers plus a bunch of other stuff.

    You do own a hairdryer don&#039;t you she asked? Of course I do, he replied, it&#039;s in the driveway, it&#039;s called a Jeep.<br /><br />Current - 97 TJ, 99 WJ, 12 Scion tC<br />Past - 94 ZJ, 02 TJ, 06 Rubicon, 06 XK, 07 Scion tC

    Edited once, last by Diablo ().

    Quote from Chief57


    OK, it's time for a little sidebar topic: I don't know what "BB" means. (I understand that BL means body lift.)


    Also, I'm running 33 x 10.50 tires.


    When I first started using the DEJA forum a couple of months ago, someone said that my lift was an economy lift. I've never known any other lift, but I believe it. Going over small bumps on a regular paved street is jarring. I guess the upshot of all this is that I need to replace the cheapo 2" suspension lift (totally?) with a higher quality 3" suspension lift, and then maybe add in a 1" BL for good measure. Seems like that's a common plan. Right?


    I had the Econo 2" BB kit on mine with 33x10.5's and I know what your talking about... Pot wholes can give you a concussion.. It's the easiest fastest (and cheapest) way to get to 33" tires.... but after you take a beating on the road for awhile and you save a few pennies, going for a real lift with springs arms etc.. makes a big difference.... Mine rides like the factory again after my 3.5" lift....


    Now my debate is if I should keep the 10.5's or go 12.5's... The 10.5's are better for a DD (daily driver) but the 12.5's have the beefy look.... It doesn't matter what you get next... it will lead to 9 other things...

    budget boost kits should ride just like factory since you're using the same springs. it's the cheap shocks that make the ride horrible. Sheesh, even my RE 3.5" makes your teeth rattle on forest trails because of the horrible shocks I've got. I'll be upgrading them relatively soon to OME shocks or Rancho adjustable shocks. Was blasting down the fire roads in NJ tonight and boy... was that a rough ride.

    Jerry / Whatevah

    2020 Gladiator Mojave - 33" Falken mud tires, LoD side steps, Zroadz bed rack, Quadratec QRC winch bumper, Superwinch EPi 9.0, Kleinn on-board air, Kleinn air horns, lots of lights, Yaesu ham radio with GPS tracker.

    Gone- 2012 JK Rubicon with stuff. Long gone- Long-arm 2001 Cherokee with stuff.

    Jerry, I don't want to prolong this forum thread longer than necessary, but you made me think of something....what about air shocks? I never read any forum posts about using air shocks, yet they are adjustable. I've only had one experience with them -- many moons ago when I thought it would be cool to raise the rear end of my 68 Cougar. Why won't air shocks work on a lifted Wrangler? :shrug: Jim

    When engaged in conversation with a fool, be sure he is not similarly engaged.
    Chief, DEJA Grammar Police

    Quote from Chief57


    Jerry, I don't want to prolong this forum thread longer than necessary, but you made me think of something....what about air shocks? I never read any forum posts about using air shocks, yet they are adjustable. I've only had one experience with them -- many moons ago when I thought it would be cool to raise the rear end of my 68 Cougar. Why won't air shocks work on a lifted Wrangler? :shrug: Jim


    Get your wallet out... ;) http://www.offroadonly.com/products/suspension/airock/

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