Haven't got my 2013 sticker yet.
I drove it to the Y and back. Tried to get the Oxygen sensor off to replace it but it didn't feel right when I tried to loosen it so I chickened out. Going to drive it to start driving it daily to get burn out the catalytic converter before trying to pass emissions again.
I can tell you one thing; climbing into the Jeep after a work out on the tread mill SUCKS!
Which Y? I was at the Western Y today (and usually am at least 5 days a week).
Put my 2013 sticker on the other day, and today fixed my starter. The contacts were no longer contacting due to grime. Cleaned 'em up, starts like a champ now!
Checked/topped fluids, cleaned/oiled KN, checked timing, found and reconnected vacuum line that was giving me a rough idle, new pump for washer fluid installed, foam under cb speaker to stop rattle, organized center console mess, put rear seat back in and remounted sub box. Also dragged Christmas tree into the woods, seperated sockets, cleaned up loose tools in shed... Tomorrow the belts and some small misc items.
Starting welding the frame and making the repaires for the next trip.
Drove to work this morning and Choe was sputtering and backfiring. When I stopped at the lights she was idling rough enough to shimmy the whole Jeep. I think it's b/c I gapped 2 of the plugs at .050 instead of .033 b/c I was too lazy to check my Haynes manual and guessed. 'Guess' I'll be re-checking that when I get home from work. At least today I won't have to work in the snow! 
I installed my sticker. Thank God for airtools.
Drove it to work today. Apparently the heat fan switch needs replaced. For now I can get away with jiggling it to find the "sweet spot" for it to work.
Speedometer is only reading 10 mph so I got to figure out what's up with that.
Of course the fuel gauge and the temperature gauge don't work. It's a CJ thing.
Drove it to work today. Apparently the heat fan switch needs replaced. For now I can get away with jiggling it to find the "sweet spot" for it to work.
Speedometer is only reading 10 mph so I got to figure out what's up with that.
Of course the fuel gauge and the temperature gauge don't work. It's a CJ thing.
Yea thought that was a Slimer sighting today! Must have been bad when I saw Slimer it was in a fenced in parking lot! John glad you got it back on the road now it needs paint, looks so strange White.
Yea thought that was a Slimer sighting today! Must have been bad when I saw Slimer it was in a fenced in parking lot! John glad you got it back on the road now it needs paint, looks so strange White.
You were at Ashland?
I'll get it painted in the Spring. I still have some bugs to work out. Feels good driving it again.
Which Y? I was at the Western Y today (and usually am at least 5 days a week).
I go to the Y on Kirkwood Highway. I think that's the Western one.
Drove to work this morning and Choe was sputtering and backfiring. When I stopped at the lights she was idling rough enough to shimmy the whole Jeep. I think it's b/c I gapped 2 of the plugs at .050 instead of .033 b/c I was too lazy to check my Haynes manual and guessed. 'Guess' I'll be re-checking that when I get home from work. At least today I won't have to work in the snow!
Well pulled and inspected plugs yesterday. Found a clod of crud bridging the gap in the #5 cylinder. Cleaned em all, gapped them correctly and greased em all up with DE grease (plug wire boots, rotor cap, coil cap, etc.). No more sputtering/missing so far. I do still have the rough idle when I come to a stop. It's like the it's not getting enough fuel/air or something. When I come to a stop, when it starts the rough idle, I put the Jeep into nuetral for a min then back to drive it idles smoothly. During the rough idle, I am hearing a slight backfire like a small puffing in the exhaust. She doesn't stall out but it sounds like she wants to. I will change the belts today but I don't think that'll help with the idle. Maybe my carb needs some cold weather adjusting? Thoughts?
There's something that handles the idle adjustment when coming down from higher rpms like you're explaining. I forget what it's called but I think it's vacuum related. I think it's the temperature sensor that screws into the side of the block. There will be a couple vacuum lines going to it. One I believe goes to the EGR valve and I think another t's into the distributor pick up vacuum hose?
Might be a place to check. In this picture I think it's the CTO switch. Your's may be different since it's newer.
You were at Ashland?
I'll get it painted in the Spring. I still have some bugs to work out. Feels good driving it again.
Yes Ashland is one of my companies clients.
There's something that handles the idle adjustment when coming down from higher rpms like you're explaining. I forget what it's called but I think it's vacuum related. I think it's the temperature sensor that screws into the side of the block. There will be a couple vacuum lines going to it. One I believe goes to the EGR valve and I think another t's into the distributor pick up vacuum hose?
Might be a place to check. In this picture I think it's the CTO switch. Your's may be different since it's newer.
Thank you sir!!! I pulled the air filter housing off and sure 'nuff found the problem. The vac line that comes from the CTO and T's into a line from the carb to the vac advance on the dizzy was rotted off. Replaced the line and T fitting and took it for a test drive. Problem resolved! Definitely have the power and acceleration back that had recently lapsed. No more rough idle at stops either. Hopefully my mpg will go back up a little too!
Had to push my junk outside so I could do some work on moms TJ. I did balljoints, tie rod ends, wheel bearings, and a alignment. Trying to get her driving straight down the road again. The ball joints were very bad and so was one hub. Hope I got it now.
On a side note, I think I got a short somewhere in my yj. I walked outside tonight and heard a buzzing. I found it was coming from under the dash. It has been sitting there for 3 days so I just disconnected the battery. I'll have to get to it someday. Might be why the damn thing won't start.
If it was sitting without the key in it and still buzzing under the dash then start with the power wire to the ignition, the power wire to the head lights, and I'm pretty sure the high beam switch. Those are the only ones I think of off hand that are always hot. Cigarette light is always hot too.
Look for discolored or melted plastic and/or burn marks on the surrounding area around the wire connection.
Got it muddy then gave it a bath. I'm too OCD to leave it dirty for long. It's an issue I'm trying to fix...
Installing the mesh behind the grille this weekend. Doing the cheap mods now to keep the 'mod bug' appeased.
If it was sitting without the key in it and still buzzing under the dash then start with the power wire to the ignition, the power wire to the head lights, and I'm pretty sure the high beam switch. Those are the only ones I think of off hand that are always hot. Cigarette light is always hot too.
Look for discolored or melted plastic and/or burn marks on the surrounding area around the wire connection.
I'm hoping you are right. I haven't gotten to investigate yet. I was too pissed off at it when I heard it. Its just odd that its doing it all of a sudden.
i finally pulled the jeep outta garage today (been in there on jack stands for like a month).
1. new transfer case chain
2. valve cover gasket
3. did the pcv mod
4. heater control valve delete (i did the open/closed cooling system swap over the summer)
5. replaced/relocated vacuum ball
6. rear drum brakes
7. flushed all the gunk out (and now the interior heat works like a champ!!!)
yea it was probably about 2-3 days worth of work, but with my work schedule and holidays i could only work on it here and there.. now im gonna work on getting these doors i got hanging in garage re-keyed and installing them and then making half doors for summertime.
Display More
i finally pulled the jeep outta garage today (been in there on jack stands for like a month).
1. new transfer case chain
2. valve cover gasket
3. did the pcv mod
4. heater control valve delete (i did the open/closed cooling system swap over the summer)
5. replaced/relocated vacuum ball
6. rear drum brakes
7. flushed all the gunk out (and now the interior heat works like a champ!!!)
yea it was probably about 2-3 days worth of work, but with my work schedule and holidays i could only work on it here and there.. now im gonna work on getting these doors i got hanging in garage re-keyed and installing them and then making half doors for summertime.
Consider saving yourself a few bucks and swap the lock cylinders you have keys for from the half doors to the full doors. Why locks half doors? Just asking for the top to be cut.
Don’t have an account yet? Register yourself now and be a part of our community!
