So been working along on this project. Rear axle is gutted and ready to be reamed. Front is getting there, I hope to be ready to shorten it by next week. Have almost all the parts in hand but today I ordered a set of Yukon 4340 Chro-Mo 35 spline rear axle shafts. I know there are stronger shafts out there but for me this is already overkill and for the price it was an easy choice... ;D Only major parts I still need are the front shafts and ARB, ordered but on back order right now. I love the snow but it has sure killed the timing on this project. Still planning for March completion.
New Project - D60's and Other Stuff
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Sounds good cool. Don't worry about holding me up or anything if you need more time before the axles come out. My project is getting pushed to the back burner anyways.
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Well, it better be march or I wont be able to do the work for him.
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Funny how things change along the way. Not too much though. I updated to the "final" parts list and just felt like saying thanks to some folks. And if I forget anyone please don't get all butt hurt on me.
This project was/is a lot of work and no how much you think you know, other people know waaay more. ;DFirst, Cory (TC Powder Coating) does great work with prepping, painting, & powder coating so kudos to him. He is very reasonable so call him before you decide to just rattle can something. Second, the guys at Randy's R&P, Dan @ RuffStuff Specialties, Bill @ Coast Driveline, and especially Trevor at WFO (steering stuff), all of them rock! Doug and Kyle at Extreme Axle Sales also hooked me up with the front axle and ARB which nobody else can seem to get right now (thick 5.13 gear makes life a little difficult). If you need parts, ditch the "big name" vendors and call these guys up. They know their sh*t, love to chat, and have great prices. And many many thanks to the folks around here, there are others but in particular Astape, Clendaniel, Turtle, 2000sahara, Knoxrents, and of course TheMistaken. I appreciate you guys hanging around the "low-tech" & definitely not hardcore Jeep forum and providing so much advice and assistance. I can't wait to get the rig out on the trails.
1979 Ford D60 Rear (reamed out to accept 35 spline axles)
1989 Ford HP D60 Front
Motive 5.13's
Coast Driveline Master Install Kits and other quality seals & bearings
ARB Front & Rear
ARB Hi-Vol Pump
Ballistic Hi-Steer Arm
WFO Steering Heims & Drag-Link Ends, and Kingpin Rebuild Kit
Clayton Rear Truss, Front UCA Mounts, and Front Lower Spring Perches/Retainers
RuffStuff Differential Covers, Offset Panhard Bracket, Assorted Shock Tabs
Ballistic Combo Front Bracket Kit, Rear Disc Brake Brackets
Yukon 4340 35 Spline Rear Axle Shafts
Stock Front Shafts (89 short side inner, 79 long side inner)
Superior Front Axle Shaft Outer Seals (Do they make these and does anyone stock them?)
K20 Rear Discs and Calipers w/Monte Carlo Lines
Stock Front Brakes (replaced)
Lubelocker Differential Gaskets
Toyo 37x13.50r17 Tires
H2 Rims
sPOD with Source mainly for ARB controls as they have the direct harness for it now, also has air gauge
Xenon 6" Flat Flares (until I go with flat fenders up front and Rokmen Strykers out back)
Wet Okole Seats with Heaters (hardwired into dash)
Rokmen Hi-Clearance Gas Tank Skid
Lots of work by Cory at TC Powder Coating -
Now if only you could get off your ass and pull that front apart and get the rear to the machine shop, I could get started cutting and wedling these fuckers.
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Now if only you could get off your ass and pull that front apart and get the rear to the machine shop, I could get started cutting and wedling these (censored)ers.Don't give me any shit f'er, you are on vacation! ;D The rear will be at the machine shop today along with the wheels. And the front will be apart by the time you get back to sunny DE.
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Yes you want the one that is the same as the d70 spindle. THe D60 bible on Pirate is very accurate.
Aaron
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More progress... TheMistaken and I spent most of yesterday working on the new front axle. While it took me almost 2 hours to secure a 4 tooth hub tool that fit this D60, I made up the time in the kingpin removal. For anyone that has done this, I was VERY lucky in that my old kingpins and all associated parts were out in a combined 15 minutes. Then, after pressing the wheel studs out, the rotors came off the hubs with ease. One fell off and the other took about 2 swings with a 4 lb dead blow hammer. ;D So all in all, what is left is welding brackets and setting gears. Then fabbing up the drag link and tie rod. And thanks to Clendaniel in confirming the sawzall/vice method of removing the leftover tube from the "C". Even after grinding off the weld, the 20 ton press wasn't doing anything at all...
Start with some bling...
Parts...
More parts...
Empty differential
Getting ready to cut the "C" off
New rear axle shafts
"C" removed
Cleaning the ends of the shortened axle shafts
Cutting the axle tube to final length
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Looks like some good progress...would've stopped down but I didn't get Ed's text about picking up the drill press until late Sun and was already headed north after an exhausting weekend of yardwork. I figured you guys were gonna go with the sawzall method from the beginning as Ed and I talked about how much of a PITA mine was before doing that...I'd ground the hell out of it and couldn't get it to budge before cutting it off. Heat might've helped but since you were already shortening the tube more than what's in the C it just easier to chop it and do the relief cut.
Nice to hear your kingpins came out easy. I never did mine originally and it's now on the list before it goes back together. Did you make/get a tool or go with the lugnut method? What made you decide to keep the KP caps and springs instead of the adjustable arms?
--Ian (only got about 15mins to work on mine last night...filed out the missing splines in the pitman and clocked it straight. Now that full steering is confirmed I need to finish my new trackbar setup and then pull the axle to do the finish welding.)
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Nice to hear your kingpins came out easy. I never did mine originally and it's now on the list before it goes back together. Did you make/get a tool or go with the lugnut method? What made you decide to keep the KP caps and springs instead of the adjustable arms?
--Ian (only got about 15mins to work on mine last night...filed out the missing splines in the pitman and clocked it straight. Now that full steering is confirmed I need to finish my new trackbar setup and then pull the axle to do the finish welding.)Ed had already made a tool so we used that on the first one and it came right out with the impact. #2 was tougher so we used an allen wrench with a 4 ft cheater bar. Came right out. ;D
What I am doing is using the stock arms for the tie rod mounted on top. Then I am using a single WFO hi-steer arm for the drag-link. After talking with Trevor at WFO and Ed, we decided this would give me great geometry and more clearance to work with while loosing an acceptable amount of clearance on the tie rod. Using some 3/4" QA-1 heims and 7/8" double pivot draglink ends from WFO. ;D WFO has a good deal on the full kingpin rebuild kit when you are ready to order...
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Yea we were both thinking of the relief cut, but neither made mention of it. Its ok. We will get it done.. I am not too worried. HAHA I have an impact socket that I made with a 7/8" socket and 7/8" allen wrench. I can let you use it if youd like. I also have a hunk of 7/8" allen that I will give you. If need be I have a normal 7/8" allen that works will with a cheater tube. I have gotten pretty good at taking them off at this point after fucking with mine for 3 days...
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Wish I knew you needed the socket to get the hub nuts off. Would have brought that with me when I stopped by.
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Wish I knew you needed the socket to get the hub nuts off. Would have brought that with me when I stopped by.No worries, I need to own one for future use. ;D
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More orange goodness.
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Stealing my color!
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But his isn't construction road marking paint....
Powder done by Cory and as always awesome job.
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Allis and chambers orange. Just got another can too Haha
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Last weekends work with TheMistaken
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