03 Tj Build

    Here's what we have or have ordered so far. I will be needing some help getting this project together. Namely Clayton install and Ford 8.8 build. My plan is to have all upgrades on-hand at start of project so minimal delays. Any ideas or suggestions are welcome. Does anyone know of a gas tank skid that is bolt on with hitch installed? The following is a complete list ( I think ) of all upgrades so far.




    Clayton


    sales@claytonoffroad.com


    Upgraded to antirock front sway bar Kit


    PD-TJ40 TJ 4" Long Arm Suspension Lift Kit ( changed to 4" L/A kit today 2/4/10 caught just before it shipped )


    SP-TJCBR 2003-2006 - TJ - Auto/Manual/Rubicon Transmission &Engine skid plate


    BracketAB-RABK-TJ TJ/LJ Rear axle bracket kit


    F4-BE5-A938-H5 Bilstein 5100 Front Shock Absorber


    F4-BE5-A940-H6 Bilstein 5100 Front Shock Absorber


    F88456 Superior Gear & Axle - Ford 8.8 4.56 Gears


    35-2013 Overhaul kit - Ford 8.8


    KJ01005 1" Motor mount lift

    Quadratech


    Keeper 6' Long x 2" Wide Tree Saver Strap (20,000 lb. Rated Capacity

    HighRock 4x4™ Receiver Recovery Hitch


    39 Tooth Speedometer Gear for 93-06 Jeep® Vehicles


    Skid Row Offroad Steering Box Skid Plate for 97-06 Jeep® Wrangler TJ & Unlimited


    Black Rock Series 941 Dune Wheel with 5 on 4.5" Bolt Pattern in 15x8 Size & 4" Backspacing


    Riddler Manufacturing Differential Cover for Ford 8.8" Axles


    Smittybilt Front XRC Bumper in Textured Black for 97-06 Jeep® Wrangler TJ & Unlimited


    Detroit Trutrac Limited Slip Differential for Ford 8.8 Rear Axle with 31 Spline


    Warn Rock sliders


    Other additions


    Hp D30 from bill knox


    Ford 8.8 build


    smittybilt xrc 8 comp winch


    Advanced adaptors SYE & Tom woods D shaft

    Quote from Quantum73


    Unless you are running 37's or bigger, the 4" Clayton is more than enough. Definitely consider antirock or swayloc up front.


    This is my 1st Build. I've owned this rig for about a year now. I've been planning all that time. I'm trying to make this very easy for future upgrade this is the reason I chose the 5.5 L/A kit.

    Quote from Solomi


    I think 33s will look very small on that lift and the proportions won't be right.


    I've considered this may be the case. I thought though I would see how it looks prior to going up-size $$. I just didn't want 2 regret in the future not going 2 the 5.5 lift.

    Quote from tmiller


    33 x 12.5 now. plan to stay there, but will see where we are at completion & consider any changes then. Unless there's some reason to change at build time.


    Then definitely drop to the 4" Clayton. If you do the axle bracket relocation kit then it really adds a lot of clearance which will make up for the 33's. Consider the rear shock outboarding/relo kit as well. With what you are talking about, and a 4" kit, 35's are easy to run and 33's will look small. And you may as well add the Currie steering at build time and not wait. Stock steering won't last long if you use the LA to its potential. ;D


    Personally, I wouldn't go long arm unless I was running 35's, although the ride is better than stock no matter what tire you go with. Again, I outboarded the rear shocks and the Bilstein's are great. And FWIW, I will be running 37's soon with the 4" kit so the 5.5" kit is definitely not needed for your plans. I may end up with the 5.5" coils but that is only because the Toyo are true 37's and even then, I will evaluate after to build is done before I change. :up:

    Quote from tmiller

    I've considered this may be the case. I thought though I would see how it looks prior to going up-size $$. I just didn't want 2 regret in the future not going 2 the 5.5 lift.


    To upgrade all you need are the Clayton 5.5" coils ($300 for all 4) and longer shocks which are always on sale...

    Quote from Solomi


    I think 33s will look very small on that lift and the proportions won't be right.


    Also consider gearing. 4.56 and a manual transmission will be ok for 33's but definitely consider 4.88 if 35's are in your future. You can quickly add a lot of cost by regearing but it is better to consider it all beforehand and to it right the first time.

    Quote from Quantum73

    Also consider gearing. 4.56 and a manual transmission will be ok for 33's but definitely consider 4.88 if 35's are in your future.


    Is this thing a 4 cyl???


    -Brad

    Straight six or nuthin!
    1993 Jeep Wrangler Sport w/ splash graphics!
    1993 Dodge W-350 Cummins
    2006 BMW 325xi wagon.

    Quote from Quantum73


    Also consider gearing. 4.56 and a manual transmission will be ok for 33's but definitely consider 4.88 if 35's are in your future. You can quickly add a lot of cost by regearing but it is
    better to consider it all beforehand and to it right the first time.


    Thanks for the nfo & suggestions. you guys are a great help. I'm 4.0 auto. My D30 is already set-up w/4.56 & OX locked so I'm going 4.56 Detroit in the8.8.

    Quote from Quantum73

    To upgrade all you need are the Clayton 5.5" coils ($300 for all 4) and longer shocks which are always on sale...




    Again thanks was able to change CLA to 4" today just prior to shipping. also swapped out disco's included in kit for antirock sway bar kit $175. diff.

    Quote from Quantum73

    :up: You will be very happy with those choices.


    X2 An extra $175 for an off road sway bar is money well spent. It is probably on of the best mods on my Jeep. Even with only 4" of lift, you will feel much more stable off road. :up:

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