Looking to borrow a tie rod reamer

  • I have a reamer, Actually in is Brian Hoyts, but I dont lend it out. The last $150 reamer was borrowed and never returned. Partially my fault because I dont remember who has it. If you want to come to N. Wilm with the arms I can drill them for you.

    Aaron


  • I have a reamer, Actually in is Brian Hoyts, but I dont lend it out. The last $150 reamer was borrowed and never returned. Partially my fault because I dont remember who has it. If you want to come to N. Wilm with the arms I can drill them for you.

    Aaron


    You are welcome to use the reamer, at Aaron's shop. :innocent:

  • Ok awsome, I have a quick questions tho, I'm running soa suspension with a full width 44, anyway the axle had high steer arms on it already with a 1'' spacer under it, so my problum is that the spring perches are too high (I don't want to cut them, their going to stay the way they are) and their is no way I can run a traditional high steer set up, unless I add about another inch of spacer, and I don't think that's going to be very safe, so right now the lower steering link is in the original position, stock location, what I would like to do is flip the steering, and ream out the original steering arms, esentally flipping the steering link 180 degrees, has anyone seen this done? I can post pics if what I said is confusing, I've only seen it done with hems but I have 1 ton chevy ends


    Thanks for offering the use of the reamer, I'll prob take you up on it


    Cj-


  • So just want to run the tie rod on the underside of the factory arms on the knuckle?


    That's an option but sometimes doing things the easy way is just too easy, I was looking for ideas, thanks.

  • If I'm understanding you correctly you want to run your draglink to the passenger highsteer arm and then run the tierod on the stock locations, only in from the top? Only issue I see here is that if you retaper from the top without going to a larger TRE the taper is gonna be funky and you may (will?) run into issues with it loosening and/or getting play in it. Depending on the size you could get tapered sleeves, drill it non-tapered, and insert/weld the sleeves in or you could fill the existing taper with weld and then retaper from the top to help matters. Alot depends on whether the intention is to use stock TRE's or '1-ton' aka 3/4 ton chevy ends.


    Either way I've got a reamer as well but like Aaron don't like loaning it. If this is on your knuckle I might be able to be convinced to bring it and my 1/2" drill and it could be done on the Jeep. Only issue there is that it's much more difficult to get 'right' as a drill press keeps things nice and straight. Where are you located?


    --Ian


  • If I'm understanding you correctly you want to run your draglink to the passenger highsteer arm and then run the tierod on the stock locations, only in from the top? Only issue I see here is that if you retaper from the top without going to a larger TRE the taper is gonna be funky and you may (will?) run into issues with it loosening and/or getting play in it. Depending on the size you could get tapered sleeves, drill it non-tapered, and insert/weld the sleeves in or you could fill the existing taper with weld and then retaper from the top to help matters. Alot depends on whether the intention is to use stock TRE's or '1-ton' aka 3/4 ton chevy ends.


    Either way I've got a reamer as well but like Aaron don't like loaning it. If this is on your knuckle I might be able to be convinced to bring it and my 1/2" drill and it could be done on the Jeep. Only issue there is that it's much more difficult to get 'right' as a drill press keeps things nice and straight. Where are you located?


    --Ian



    thats excactly what i was thinking of doing, i was going to weld in the orginal mounting holes on the kuckle and then re drill it and then use a reamer, i was also thinking of first just reaming it, since i was going to weld it anyway (if i had to) and then seeing if its possible to just ream it and then maybe it will work. as far as what I have for steering im using this kit from ECGS;

    http://eastcoastgearsupply.com…-ton-hd-steering-kit.html

    the real solution would be to make the high steer work, they make "taller" arms that are 7/8'' staller than normal D44 high steer arms, however if i used a set of these:

    http://www.polyperformance.com…44-Tall-Arms-p-19807.html

    i know i will still proubly need to use at least a 3/4 inch spacer or even the full inch. i have to do some more reading online and find what other people have done. here are some reference pics.

    I live in Camden-Wyoming FYI

    the problum, this pic is not showing it to well but the are is 1/2 inch from clearing the spring.
    [img width=800 height=597]http://i177.photobucket.com/al…20build%20up/IMG_1245.jpg[/img]

    how it was, just to give you an idea
    [img width=800 height=597]http://i177.photobucket.com/al…20build%20up/IMG_1246.jpg[/img]

    the new ends
    [img width=800 height=597]http://i177.photobucket.com/al…20build%20up/IMG_1247.jpg[/img]


    -Cj

  • I spent an hour yesterday really looking at my options, it seams I only have two, leave it where it is or do a full tradional high steer, if I flip it on the kuckles then the bar hits the huge diff cover and the springs before it gets to full bump, I'll proubly end up leaving it where it is and then just carrying an extra lower link, just incase mine gets bent, that would be difficult considering it's .250 wall Dom, I can see the knuckles breaking before that happens, thanks for the input, but I still would want to ream out my new arms, I'll pm you gies sometime this week


    Cj-

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