Snapped Tie Rod Link

Should be fairly easy if its anything like the Tjs. 2 crown nuts with pins through them and it drop out. You will have to get new pins as re-using them isn't the best idea but they can be bought at any ace hardware.

You will most likely need a pickle fork also to remove the tie rod ends.

Quote from 2000sahara

You will most likely need a pickle fork also to remove the tie rod ends.

X2.

They rarely just "drop out".

In order to take off the one tierod a pickle fork will be needed. Once you pull the castle nut and cotter pin off of the tierod end you will neeed to wedge the pickle fork inbetween the tre and the knuckle and beat it with a hammer to get it to pop out. It is a pressed fit. Dont beat on the bottom of the tre or you will damage the threads. Once you have the new piece installed thread the tre back on, instert in hole and tighten down with castle nut, then insert cotter pin.

Before you buy a fork loosen the nut until it is only on by a few threads then hit the knuckle where the tre bolts through with a big hammer 2 or 3 times. Usually it will break the taper and the end will drop free.

Ive only got two of them. One has longer ends and it narrow the other is a bit shorter with a wider gap in the end. I tend to use the longer narrow one more on stock jeeps stuff but a wider one will still work when i cant find the other(Which happens alot in my disaster of a garage). Spedlys way also works more often than not also but ive boogered up some threads that way. But then again I can get a bit aggressive with a hammer.

Quote from JKgray10

My alignment is off and my steering is off centered but should this be safe to casually drive with until I get the part to fix it? If not I need to make arrangements to get to work.

Not exactly sure what this piece does.

But if something on the steering linkage is broken, I wouldn't drive it.

Quote from 2000sahara

Ive only got two of them. One has longer ends and it narrow the other is a bit shorter with a wider gap in the end. I tend to use the longer narrow one more on stock jeeps stuff but a wider one will still work when i cant find the other(Which happens alot in my disaster of a garage). Spedlys way also works more often than not also but ive boogered up some threads that way. But then again I can get a bit aggressive with a hammer.

Thats why you leave the nut on a few threads.

Quote from Spedly

Thats why you leave the nut on a few threads.

If you bang too hard you can actually compress the stud and damage the threads.

Also, if you don't strike it squarely you can bend it.

You don't strike the tie rod you strike the knuckle. Unless you absolutely suck at using a hammer there's no way to damage the threads.

Quote from Spedly

You don't strike the tie rod you strike the knuckle. Unless you absolutely suck at using a hammer there's no way to damage the threads.

Then what's the purpose of leaving the nut on ?

Incase your terrible at using a hammer like Ed.

Quote from Spedly

You don't strike the tie rod you strike the knuckle. Unless you absolutely suck at using a hammer there's no way to damage the threads.

This has usually worked well for me.

When you put the ends back on, count the exposed threads before you remove them from the bad rod and match it on the new one. Doing this, the alignment measured out perfectly when I replaced a bent tie rod on my JK.