Looking to see if anyone has or knows anyone who has 4 (preferably 5) spidertrax wheel adapters . Need them to put JK wheels on my LJ. bolt pattern needs to go from 4.5 to 5. Thanks for the help!!
looking for spidertrax wheel adapters
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Be careful. I have had issues with adapters/spacers in the past. Everything was tightened down and everything was re-checked after a few trips out. One morning my wife was driving into work and he rear tire broke all the studs on the adapter and the tire rolled by as she was pulling over.
Luckily she controlled the vehicle and skided safely in to the shoulder.I know somebody else this happened to as well. And when the topic gets brought up there is always another few that has had safety concerns with them.
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Be careful. I have had issues with adapters/spacers in the past. Everything was tightened down and everything was re-checked after a few trips out. One morning my wife was driving into work and he rear tire broke all the studs on the adapter and the tire rolled by as she was pulling over. Luckily she controlled the vehicle and skided safely in to the shoulder.I know somebody else this happened to as well. And when the topic gets brought up there is always another few that has had safety concerns with them.
They do require proper torque and need to be re-torqued on a schedule. Also I understand most who have had issues are using the cheap ones.
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Be careful. I have had issues with adapters/spacers in the past. Everything was tightened down and everything was re-checked after a few trips out. One morning my wife was driving into work and he rear tire broke all the studs on the adapter and the tire rolled by as she was pulling over. Luckily she controlled the vehicle and skided safely in to the shoulder.I know somebody else this happened to as well. And when the topic gets brought up there is always another few that has had safety concerns with them.
Thanks for the heads up! Ive been weighing the pros and cons like this for awhile now, but I found a set of 5 JK rubicon wheels and tires for such a good deal that i had to buy them. I now have a brand new set of wheels and tires with the stickers still on them and am buying a lift tomorrow morning. I will definitely keep your advice in mind though
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They do require proper torque and need to be re-torqued on a schedule.
If you applied loctite and you re-torque, you will break the bond and the loctite will become useless so be sure to re-apply the loctite before re-torquing. -
If you applied loctite and you re-torque, you will break the bond and the loctite will become useless so be sure to re-apply the loctite before re-torquing.Which requires removing the nuts, so it wouldn't really be a "re-torque".
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The only issue I have ever seen with a set of Poison Spider spacers was due to installation error... The acorn nuts were installed upside down on the spacers which let them loosen up and fall off over time.. A simple torque check occasionally is all you need to do
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Which requires removing the nuts, so it wouldn't really be a "re-torque".
I always used loctite on the permanent lugs since they don't get removed with the wheel. If the aluminum compresses a little over time, removing the lugs and torquing to spec with loctite would do the same thing as just tightening them. 80 ft lbs is 80 ft lbs no matter how you do it. Loctite was just good piece of mind for me since I couldn't see those lugs since they are not only recessed but also hidden behind the wheel.
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I always used loctite on the permanent lugs since they don't get removed with the wheel. If the aluminum compresses a little over time, removing the lugs and torquing to spec with loctite would do the same thing as just tightening them. 80 ft lbs is 80 ft lbs no matter how you do it. Loctite was just good piece of mind for me since I couldn't see those lugs since they are not only recessed but also hidden behind the wheel.If you say so.
The whole idea to re-torquing is that something may have seated more after the initial torquing.
I guess if you removed one at a time, applied new loctite and then re-torqued, you wouldn't disturb the seating that had occurred.
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Yeah I know.
The lawyers probably spec'd that.
It actually says to check the torque and if the nut moves to remove all the nuts and start over.
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It actually says to check the torque and if the nut moves to remove all the nuts and start over.
That's checking them at 10 ft/lbs less than the initial torque.
So if they move at 80, they certainly aren't at 90.
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Yeah I know.It's not often I get the best of Keith. I think my record to date is 0-85.
Can we make this a sticky?
It actually says to check the torque and if the nut moves to remove all the nuts and start over.
I actually agree with Keith's method of doing one at a time. That's what I did. Keeping the spacer pressed in place against the wheel while torquing individually made more sense to me.
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Just want to make a note, the conversations, although distracting, are free bumps to the top.
and B. do you own a 66' Viking?
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