Fender rust disguise

  • I have some rust on each of my TJ front fenders. (I think maybe back in 1998 you could order your TJ from the factory "pre-rusted" to save some time.) When i had my TJ painted 18 months ago, the body shop was supposed to deal with the rust, but, naturally, I got snookered. The paint is now "bubbling." I see Tough Stuff makes a "band-aid" solution:

    http://www.quadratec.com/products/12534_101.htm

    I'm wondering if anyone has experience with this product. I had been thinking of buying some "no skid" and crafting my own custom fender cover, but here's one that's ready-made, and it's inexpensive enough. I'm not crazy about the look of this, but I think it's better than rust. Also, in my prep work, must I use something like POR 15 on the problem areas?

    When engaged in conversation with a fool, be sure he is not similarly engaged.
    Chief, DEJA Grammar Police

  • good plan, wire wheel the rust sports, por15, and cover it all up with a big ass bandaid! $20 sounds like a great deal. Remember anywhere POR15 is used , it must be top coated while still a little tacky. It will break down over time in the sun's UV rays.

    Nobody belongs anywhere, nobody exists on purpose, everybody's going to die. Have a beer.


    Jeeps Owned... 89YJ, 81CJ-8, 99XJ, 93XJ, 00WJ, 05LJ, 22Bronco Badlands !

  • they are still just vinyl stickers. Any bumps from the rust will show up. sand it down, POR-15 and cover with plasti-dip still removable, easily touched up, and flat black texture you could blend anywhere ...not limited to the pre-cut vinyl.

  • The problem is that on the early TJ fenders it isn't as easy as 'grinding it down'...most of the time they rust through from the bottom as there's panel underneath that allows water/mud/etc to get sandwiched in there. The only way to truly rid yourself of the problem is to cut out the affected section and replace or simply replace the fenders. I've got the same issue on the blue '97 I picked up and if we keep it I'll eventually pick up a new set of fenders, until then I'll ignore it.


    --Ian

  • Thanks all. Yes, this is most definitely a Band-Aid solution. I know a little about POR 15...wish it came in small containers. Like a lot of Jeepers, I'd like a set of after-market flat fenders. But, unlike Congress, I don't have an unlimited supply of money....

    When engaged in conversation with a fool, be sure he is not similarly engaged.
    Chief, DEJA Grammar Police

  • POR 15 comes in small containers. Kuncles sells it. I bought a quart the last time. Why not just buy the Krylon anti skid in a spray can. Sure seems like the cheapest bet yet. My mom's TJ has had the who;e front fenders sprayed in it. Covers the rust up.
    Who painted it? To get rid of rust it has to be sanded down and sealed. You had that painted pretty recently, I would take it back and have them fix it.

  • I just had to replace both my fenders on my yj... Because they didn't fix the rust properly and it bubbled up and well let's say I got tired of looking @ it and tore them off.... If I could figure out how to post pics I would. Know anyone who does paint jobs for cheap?

    Anytime you take your 20+ year old jeep apart plan on fixing more them you intended.

  • you used to be able to get it in pint containers. when my friend sold it he sold a lot of pints. The underside is the most important side to do since it will see the mud, salt, and whatever the most. Another product that works well and is easier to use than POR is Extends. I think Permatex bought it and sells it under another name. You strip the area to bare metal, coat it with this paint, wait a few minutes and paint again. Then let it sit overnight and it will turn black. Then you can top coat it.

    Member since 2000

    Jeeps Owned'79 CJ5:

    Specs-

    - 258 I6

    - '93 Cherokee fuel injection and HO head,

    - bored 30 over

    - with 4x4 cam

    T18 tranny with granny low / Dana 18 t-case

    Dana 44 front and back from late '70s Wagoneer, both locked and loaded with 4.88 gears

    SOA on modified YJ springs with shackle reversa

    Fiberglass tub with 6 point cage mounted to the frame


    2015 Grand Cherokee Limited
    Spec-

    Quadratec Floor mats

  • Again, I appreciate the good feedback. To do a good job, I probably need to remove the fenders and really grind away from underneath, and that's a wee bit more than I'm comfortable doing. I'd like to take the TJ back to the guy who did the body/paint work, but I know that would just add to my frustration. Thus, the Band-Aid approach....

    If we have a body work guy in DEJA who'd like to tackle this for a reasonable price, I'd like to discuss.

    When engaged in conversation with a fool, be sure he is not similarly engaged.
    Chief, DEJA Grammar Police

  • If you have a 4" grinder you can get various types of wheels for it. They make flapper wheels with a course sand paper on it that will work well. I've had a lot of luck with these blue plastic abrasive wheels (I think they are called zip strip or something). They'll take the fender down to bare metal in seconds and leave a nice smooth finish.


    Taking the fenders off will make it easier. It's only a few bolts. That way you can take just the fenders back to the guy to repaint them.

    Member since 2000

    Jeeps Owned'79 CJ5:

    Specs-

    - 258 I6

    - '93 Cherokee fuel injection and HO head,

    - bored 30 over

    - with 4x4 cam

    T18 tranny with granny low / Dana 18 t-case

    Dana 44 front and back from late '70s Wagoneer, both locked and loaded with 4.88 gears

    SOA on modified YJ springs with shackle reversa

    Fiberglass tub with 6 point cage mounted to the frame


    2015 Grand Cherokee Limited
    Spec-

    Quadratec Floor mats


  • If you have a 4" grinder you can get various types of wheels for it. They make flapper wheels with a course sand paper on it that will work well. I've had a lot of luck with these blue plastic abrasive wheels (I think they are called zip strip or something). They'll take the fender down to bare metal in seconds and leave a nice smooth finish.


    Taking the fenders off will make it easier. It's only a few bolts. That way you can take just the fenders back to the guy to repaint them.


    Ever seen the area I was referring to? If it's bubbling on the top side by the time you grind it out you're gonna be left with a hole, not 'bare metal'. Anything short of cutting out and welding new material or replacing the fender will just delay the inevitable.

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