I think Ian has it right.
If you envision it abstractly and hung the frame from a tree by it's tongue and then applied weight to the rear receiver the load will be shared/transferred into the rear corners.
I don't see any benefit if the triangulation was flipped other than It might help if you get rear-ended. 
I think Ian has it right.
If you envision it abstractly and hung the frame from a tree by it's tongue and then applied weight to the rear receiver the load will be shared/transferred into the rear corners.
I don't see any benefit if the triangulation was flipped other than It might help if you get rear-ended.
Ssshhhh....I wanna see the stress analysis. 
And Jerry...
Since you asked about a welder, curious how you plan to cut all the tubing.
Abrasive cut-off saws are cheap and fast but rarely make a true cut as even the thicker blades tend to flex through the cut, especially with the thicker tube.
The Dewalt multi-cutter is expensive as are the blades but it does a pretty good job with way less sparks and burrs.
A port-a-band will work but is slow and requires accurate lay out and a good eye and steady hand.
Nice thing about welding as opposed to wood working is that you can compensate for minor mis-matches.
I have a metal chop saw you can borrow. I havent used it in a couple years so you may need a new blade.
Aaron has a blade for metal that has teeth that cuts pretty true and lasts way longer.
Reciprocating saw with Milwalkee torch blades will cut through .120 wall like butter also. I have a 4x6 horizontal band saw that cuts really well. Its not 100% square but good enough that you can easily clean it up with a flap wheel. Ive got a chop saw too but its noisy, messy, and always trips the breaker in my garage.
I have a metal chop saw you can borrow. I havent used it in a couple years so you may need a new blade.
Aaron has a blade for metal that has teeth that cuts pretty true and lasts way longer.
Sweet, I'll keep that in mind. I'm kinda leaning toward the cheap band saw from Harbor Freight... the reviews say it's good if you replace the blade. But, still have the problem about power for the welder. Maybe I'll have to mooch off somebody after all. Was actually hoping to do this all by myself.
to be honest... was just gonna use cutoff discs on a grinder then switch to grinding or flap discs to get the angles close enough. I do have a 10" compound saw collecting dust in the garage, but don't think I can slow it down enough for steel. A stick on the motor says 4900rpm or something like that. Also, I only have 2 blank spots in the breaker box, don't think that's enough room to get a 220 circuit. And the garage outlets are only on a 15A breaker, so I dunno if I can do any welding here at all.
It only takes 2 spaces to make a 220V outlet.
It only takes 2 spaces to make a 220V outlet.
As long as they are on opposite legs.
Also an extension cord from the dryer plug works too.
Sweet, I'll keep that in mind. I'm kinda leaning toward the cheap band saw from Harbor Freight... the reviews say it's good if you replace the blade. But, still have the problem about power for the welder. Maybe I'll have to mooch off somebody after all. Was actually hoping to do this all by myself.
My 4x6 saw is MSC brand which is basically the same as the HF. Blades are def an issue. I purchased a few $$$ blades that didn't hold up. Been having decent results with cheap ridgid ones from Home Depot. There are a million forums on 4x6 bandsaws that tell you how to mod them and make them cut straight. It's nice if your cutting a bunch of metal, you can set it and walk away for a while.
If you can get ahold of a 120V MIG it's not a big deal to add a 20 amp outlet.
What's you budget for building the trailer? I'm curious if your number will steadily increase as you buy material, tools, re-buy material for mistakes, your time, etc etc... I think its pretty cool to build your own trailer and all but sometimes it worth buying to atleast have the basic platform to build your expedition trailer.
My 4x6 saw is MSC brand which is basically the same as the HF. Blades are def an issue. I purchased a few $$$ blades that didn't hold up. Been having decent results with cheap ridgid ones from Home Depot. There are a million forums on 4x6 bandsaws that tell you how to mod them and make them cut straight. It's nice if your cutting a bunch of metal, you can set it and walk away for a while.
Where do you have a 4x6 bandsaw hidden in that garage? You can barely walk in there.
What's you budget for building the trailer? I'm curious if your number will steadily increase as you buy material, tools, re-buy material for mistakes, your time, etc etc... I think its pretty cool to build your own trailer and all but sometimes it worth buying to atleast have the basic platform to build your expedition trailer.
Who makes mistakes?
I know the process to get a title for a homemade trailer requires a bunch of documentation but is the title more expensive to get rather than just transferring one?
Who makes mistakes?
I know the process to get a title for a homemade trailer requires a bunch of documentation but is the title more expensive to get rather than just transferring one?
Same price.
And all you need is to fill out a form and provide receipts for material.
What's you budget for building the trailer? I'm curious if your number will steadily increase as you buy material, tools, re-buy material for mistakes, your time, etc etc... I think its pretty cool to build your own trailer and all but sometimes it worth buying to atleast have the basic platform to build your expedition trailer.
It's a nice project IMO and well worth a higher cost.
The learning and experience is priceless.
And quality tools should be looked at as an investment, not merely an expense.
what Keith said, the experience of building something is priceless.
Jerry, i have a welder (with its own 220 outlet even) and plenty of driveway space. I also have an extension cord for it that we could hook up to work with your dryer outlet if that works.
We will find options for ya, and i really want to see how this turns out, so i will do what i can for ya.
In regard to budget, I said before a soft budget of 2000 without tent and might let that go higher to upgrade to the Timbren suspension. Well, I already ordered that. Lol I know it would be a lot easier to buy a HF frame, but I don't think it would be much cheaper, if at all. And I'd still have to cut it to narrow and shorten it and attach a front receiver for the Max-Coupler. Which means welding... I really don't think I'll have to rebuy anything except maybe different length bolts unless I really screw something up. I'm getting much better with my projects sticking to plan lately. Aside from the last wiring project when the color codes were to standard and my multimeter was dead so I couldn't verify. 
I'm with Keith, you don't count tools. As for my time, I typically waste my free time until it gets warm, so my time is free. From what I've seen, title cost isn't a problem, just have an extra step if you don't have a VIN plate.
Here's the spreadsheet I started, haven't updated in a week or so, though. https://docs.google.com/spread…WNh0buFY/edit?usp=sharing
I need to update the electrical stuff there and add a wheel spacer. I want to be able to fit factory JK wheels (only carry one spare) which won't fit on trailer hubs, so need 2" spacers. If I had aftermarket lug-centric wheels this wouldn't be a concern. I'll only put stuff on there that's permanent to the trailer. Like water and gas cans won't be on the list. I have more stuff in my wishlist like solar panels but I think I can make do with just a battery for now.
For the 110/220, I really don't know AC wiring. The two free spots are together, I don't know if that means anything. My dryer is 15 feet from the garage door and 30 feet from where I'd be working. Oy so much to learn... Chris, I will keep you in mind.
fair enough. 
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