SYE and Drive Shaft Questions

    I don't want to ask this on pirate 4X4 as I will hear a bunch of crap for asking a stupid question. Frankly, I've never screwed with a drive shaft or a transfer case aside from changing the oil.



    My jeep has a Rubicon Express SYE kit also known as the hack and tap kit and the seal leaks badly. I want to replace it with an advanced adapters SYE kit as I see a lot of complaints on the internet about the hack and tap kits leaking. If its on the net it must be true, right?



    This is the kit currently installed. [size=78%]http://www.morris4x4center.com…FbnA_vnkecfUGNhoC63bw_wcB[/size]





    With the above kit installed I have a Tom Woods drive shaft that is flanged on both ends. The drive shaft is very similar to this one in appearance.







    The standard Advanced adapters kit has a 1310 CV yoke on it and they have an option for a "1300 series flange". My question: Are all 1300 series flanges the same/share the same bolt pattern?









    In the event that I order the 1310 CV yoke is this the part that is required to remove the flange on drive shaft to be able to use the CV yoke?
    [size=78%]http://www.dennysdriveshaft.co…entering_yoke_1310_s.html[/size]



    Finally what would be your preference?
    I'm currently leaning towards keeping the flanged shaft as in my mind it would appear to be stronger. The bolts are larger and spread over a greater bolt pattern and I also already have the drive shaft for it.



    I'm also leaning towards the advanced adapters kit as it appears to be made in the USA.
    Any opinions on this brand versus another?

    RTV that piece! Lol... I don't know what the Hack&Tap moves/replaces on the transfer case but I'd make sure that it didn't change something that would nullify you switching to any other type of SYE setup. If it's salvagable, I've been told that they're pretty much all the same in regards to quality. I went with the PORC SYE and a CJ Tatton driveshaft (Ebay). Cost was right around $400 total. You could always sell the setup you have and then buy the SYE/driveshaft you want. :shrug:

    Your life is made up of 2 dates and a dash... make the most of the dash!

    It's not the flange that is leaking it is the seal. You can't RTV a seal on a moving shaft. The previous owner replaced the seal once and it has started leaking again shortly there after.



    The hack and tap basically pulls of the slip yoke and makes you cut off the shaft. It then places a seal in that flange on a section the shaft that never had a seal. The advanced adapters kit not only removes the slip yoke but also the speedo gear housing with a new housing with a seal in it and you also put in a new output shaft.



    The difference is the hack and tap you can do it with everything still installed on the jeep. Other brands you have to pull the transfer case and take it apart.



    I would prefer to pull it apart and be done with it if it is the better option then replacing a seal that will leak again shortly down the road.

    Then I'd definitely go with Option B and replace the whole smash. It took me like 30 mins to do the SYE on my YJ. It's a pretty easy modification. As far as the driveshaft goes, would that yoke in the bottom pic replace the yoke on the SYE and then bolt to the flange on the driveshaft?


    Edit: Looking at the pic of the driveshaft again, it looks like you can remove that upper flange and be done with it. The ujoint should mate up to the yoke on the SYE and secure with the ujoint straps (you'll likely need to purchase those as I don't believe they come in the SYE kit).

    Quote from willf650


    I don't want to ask this on pirate 4X4 as I will hear a bunch of crap for asking a stupid question.


    Good idea. DeJA is the place to ask questions and get friendly, informative answers and advice.

    ~ JD
    * WARNING - The above post may contain trace elements of biting sarcasm. Those with known sensitivities should avoid staring directly at it.

    Quote from Kuntryboy816

    Edit: Looking at the pic of the driveshaft again, it looks like you can remove that upper flange and be done with it. The ujoint should mate up to the yoke on the SYE and secure with the ujoint straps (you'll likely need to purchase those as I don't believe they come in the SYE kit).


    Not true. On a SYE the bolts pass through the output yoke into a treaded yoke on the driveshaft. He maybe able to just swap out the section with the centering ball, if the length is still adequate.


    Technically you can do a SYE install with the T-case in the jeep but they are pretty easy to pull. You will need a set of flat nose slip snap ring pliers.

    I dont know the exact distance but it is shorter. The aa kit replaces the tail extension and main shaft and the yoke seal is now made there. Your current hack and tap has the yoke at the end of the original main shaft.

    Just to add to this if it comes up for someone in a search engine I contacted Tom Woods drive shaft and they told me the flanged outputs on the the drive shafts are substantially stronger then the yoke style. They also are capable of a little more flex before they bind.


    Considering that I'm new to four wheeling in a jeep and the one ride I've been on so far someone snapped their yoke bolts I'm sticking with the flanges.


    I will probably know Monday whether I need a different length drive shaft after I send a couple measurements back to Tom. If you have purchased one of his drive shafts he offers a service to alter the length and rebalance it for $70 including return shipping. This will be the route I'm going since this drive shaft was $350 in 2011.



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