I have spent the past 14 months working on the 87 Wrangler. Started with a simple repaint , ended up with replacing hood, tailgate, cowl, windshield & frame, seats, installed family rollbar and body mounts and bushings). Then went to replace bushings in leaf springs, which ended up replacing all 4 springs. Then found out some of the 4" lift kit components were incorrect. Replaced them, then replaced most of the front end. After a front end aline, I have to replace the steering box BUT now this arose:
My problem is the rear drive shaft. With all components now correct, the Wrangler sets much higher and the rear u-joints are making a clunking/clicking noise. I have been researching articles about driveshaft angles but I'm lost. Can anyone explain to me in simple english how/where/what to measure and what will cure the problem? The Wrangler has a 4.2L with a B&M turbo 350 trans. There's a mount under the trans that's adjustable and I can drop the trans about 1 inch.
I have a photo of the rear driveshaft. Just email me: cdlongjr@msn.com
Any help is greatly appreciated. JEEP, just empty every pocket. My pockets were empty long ago. Mrs. & I want to ride! You know what they say "if Momma ain't happy, ain't nobody happy". Right now Momma is furious!
U-joints clunking?
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I would be happy to look at the photo, I emailed you.
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Here's the picture if anyone else has comment.
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The slip yoke and the axle pinion need to be parallel to each other oe your going to have vibes and premature ujoint wear and failure. Even then, if the angle of the driveshaft is too steep, it will cause the issues even if they're parallel. It looks pretty close to the angle mine was at before I switched to a SYE and CV driveshaft. I was replacing ujoints 2-3 times a year and still had bad vibrations between 30&45 mph. I'll see if I can find the pics of my old setup.
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I'm surprised you haven't broken a U-joint or the slip yoke or both. I think you'll need a CV (double-cardan) drive shaft. With that, the pinion should be pointing at the output at the transfer case. Check out Tom Wood's Custom Drive Shafts on the web. With the two-joint shaft you have, they should be parallel (equal but opposite angles). From Tom Wood's Tech-Geometry page:
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As was said, look into switching a CV drive shaft (and SYE if available) and rotate the pinion up. You can do that with degree shims which shove in between the axle mounting plate and the spring, or cut the axle mounting plates off, rotate the pinion up where you need, and weld on new mounting plates.
But I believe if you can get a SYE for that transmission you could gain a little length in the drive shaft which would help all around.
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I was able to remove some shims from the turbo 350 tranny mount and get the angles better. Drove her 2 hours to Maryland for a family reunion yesterday. No issues.
Thanks to all for all the help !!!!
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