Lift Advice

depends on what you intend to use the Jeep for. trails, beach, for show, etc... at any rate, you'll get a lot of opinions. You can get away with a RE 3.5" and a 1" body lift for many things, although the RE 4.5" kit is a very nice upgrade, as it includes a few more components in addition to the taller springs.

No SYE needed, as the Rubicon tcase already has one. you'll just need a longer cv shaft for your lift height. example here: http://www.quadratec.com/products/52301_910.htm

4.56 or 4.88 are the usual gears, depending on the weight of the tires. really heavy tires (like parnelli jones), you'd want the 4.88s. more highway, or normal weight tires, 4.56 would be fine.

I lose most of my mpg on my daily commute going to work. stop-n-go, then hilly backroads. I'm actually going with 4.56 gears for my 32s (will eventually move up to 33s) since I need the gearing for the commute. If I had a shorter commute or all highway stuff, I'd run 4.11s. now, the only highway I do is going to Dover for the club meetings, since I run mostly backroads to the offroad areas. Even then, I should be fine on the highway, since with my 0.75:1 overdrive, I should be around 2275rpm at 65mph. There is a chart here that shows the rpms for various gear/tire sizes: http://4lo.com/calc/geartable.htm it doesn't take into account overdrive gearing, so figure out what overdrive gear you have and factor that into the chart.

PM Quantum73. I think he still has a nice RE 3.5" lift available. You might be able to work out getting Wolverines 4.5" springs to go with it. That would be a great set up for you.

I have the 4.56s with 35" BFG AT in mine. I think the 4.56 gears are good for DDs that go off road occasionally. Mine will buzz down Rt 1 at 65 mph with no problem.

BTW... Are you guy that I met at Home Depot yesterday, Jason right? DE is such a small state!

Personally I like this lift. Just watch the over passes.

You should just buy the AEV Highline Hood kit or whatever it's called and throw 35's on it with no lift.

whats so bad about a 1" body? I'd rather go 1" body and do a tummy tuck over going another inch in suspension!! Why do you want 35s? What is your over all goal? If I were to do it all over again, and with a DD, I would just stick at a 2" BB, 1.25" Body lift, Tummy tuck, and 33s. A rubicon set-up like that will go most places a regular TJ on 35s will. And you would not need to get new gears... Put the money into a cage and skids!

Quote from TheMistaken

whats so bad about a 1" body? I'd rather go 1" body and do a tummy tuck over going another inch in suspension!! Why do you want 35s? What is your over all goal? If I were to do it all over again, and with a DD, I would just stick at a 2" BB, 1.25" Body lift, Tummy tuck, and 33s. A rubicon set-up like that will go most places a regular TJ on 35s will. And you would not need to get new gears... Put the money into a cage and skids!

sounds exactly like my Jeep.

Quote from NitroRubi

sounds exactly like my Jeep.

And look where your Jeep ended up!!!! ;D Just Kidding!!

That does sound like some very sound advice for a Daily Driver. If I had to drive mine to work on the highway everyday I certainly wouldn't want to be running on 35s. I know people that do it but I'd say you're better off on 33s.

After going on a couple trips with Captain I'm not sure what size tires he has or exactly what his setup is but he can go through almost anything. He did everything that I did and even one hill climb that I did not. You don't NEED huge tires / lift unless you WANT that look.

I agree with TheMistaken on the body lift. The benefits far outweigh the detriments.
And definitely do it right the first time. You learn a lot taking baby steps but it is a waste of money.

FWIW, I am happier daily driving my current set-up of 35's on a 4" long arm and BL than my former set-up of 33's on a 4" short arm. It just handles that much better IMO.

Quote from KnoxRents

I agree with TheMistaken on the body lift. The benefits far outweigh the detriments.
And definitely do it right the first time. You learn a lot taking baby steps but it is a waste of money.

FWIW, I am happier daily driving my current set-up of 35's on a 4" long arm and BL than my former set-up of 33's on a 4" short arm. It just handles that much better IMO.

Yes a long arm is way better on the road, but the price is up there generally. If price is not important and you are determined to run 35s. I would get the Clayton 4" Long-arm along with their front adj track bar and drop bracket. Then maybe a body lift and 35s, but you should be able to fit 35s without the body lift. Hoyt, how much room do you have between tires and fenders?

Quote from TheMistaken

Yes a long arm is way better on the road, but the price is up there generally. If price is not important and you are determined to run 35s. I would get the Clayton 4" Long-arm along with their front adj track bar and drop bracket. Then maybe a body lift and 35s, but you should be able to fit 35s without the body lift. Hoyt, how much room do you have between tires and fenders?

From the top of the tire to the bottom of the fender flare = 7.5" in the front and 8" in the rear. Probably add another 2.5" to the actual fender. No rubbing during full flex. Setup is in my sig. There is no reason to shy away from a 1-1.25" body lift. I would rather have that than go with 5.5" springs. It also allows for a TT as well as many aftermarket gas tank skids that buy you another 1.5 - 2" clearance. Couple that with my control arm and sway bar bracket relo above the axles and it is like I am running 37's but with a decently low COG. I am VERY pleased with the full Clayton package.

FWIW I went from a 2" BB and 1.25" BL to my LA setup and skipped all the middle BS steps. As Billy said, if you know what you want, save your money until you can do it in one step. And don't underestimate your rig. TheMistaken can attest to where I took mine on the BB setup on 33's. Just get some LCA skids and a good engine/trans skid and you are all set.

If you don't want a body lift just buy the RE 4.5" lift. Don't do coil spacers on top of the 3.5" springs. 4.5" springs will get you close to 6" of lift anyway.

Quote from Wolverine

If you don't want a body lift just buy the RE 4.5" lift. Don't do coil spacers on top of the 3.5" springs. 4.5" springs will get you close to 6" of lift anyway.

x2 35s are over rated anyway...