What have you done to your Jeep today?

That's a pretty slick little setup, Steve. Thanks!

I never had a plate light when I had recessed tail lights and never got hassled. Passed inspection too. But if you shorten the tire carrier you won't have to move the plate because the tail light and license plate won't be covered.

Quote from Slimer

I never had a plate light when I had recessed tail lights and never got hassled. Passed inspection too. But if you shorten the tire carrier you won't have to move the plate because the tail light and license plate won't be covered.

It's easier to move the plate than it is to shorten the carrier frame. If I cut down the driver's side of it, then I have to fabricate a whole new latching system. If I shorten the passenger side, then I have to drill out the welds, remove the hinge bars, cut the tube down, drill holes for welds, reinstall hinge bars and then spot weld the bar in the tube via the drilled holes. Even then, I don't think it would pull it far enough to the passenger side to clear the license plate. I was thinking maybe mounting the plate vertically on the right-most vertical bar with the 2 angled supports. I wonder what DMV has to say about that? I do have a jerry can carrier I had planned on mounting to that space so maybe I'll mount the plate to that... decisions.

I had that thought as well. I'm not sure how big that spare is in that pic so once I get mind done and mounted, I'll see how much it blocks the light. Planning for a 3rd brake light though.

I dropped the tank to replace it with a less holy version. Broke the straps and couldn't get them until today. It appears that the tank vent(s) became obstructed at some point which drew in the bottom of the tank and caused the rupture on the corner. A few hours sitting in the sun and it popped back to its original shape.

Collected a few souvenirs over the years...

Going to be a multicolored Jeep for a bit. I have matching fenders and a hood that'll be going on as well.

Sent from my SM-G900T using Tapatalk

With Memorial Day coming up, paint the tail gait like an American Flag.

Years ago there was a guy in the club with a CJ7 painted like a flag.

Quote from Slimer

With Memorial Day coming up, paint the tail gait like an American Flag.

Years ago there was a guy in the club with a CJ7 painted like a flag.

John Beers? Or something like that? It was a glass CJ if I remember correctly.

Yeah John Beers.

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

Beers was really cool, wonder what he is up to these days

Sent from my XT1575 using Tapatalk

Last night, I finished installing the new to me fuel tank. It went pretty well for the most part. I started Saturday afternoon and tried to finish it up Sunday. When I broke the strap bolts Sunday afternoon I then found out that none of the parts stores around have replacement tank straps in stock. Picked them up Monday but felt like crap so I didn't even mess with the Jeep until after work yesterday. When I had it all buttoned up, I had about 5 gallons of fuel to get from a Home Depot bucket back into the fuel tank. After that octane cocktail, I quickly reminded myself last night to pick up one of those self priming siphoning tubes. Speaking of tubes, do y'all know how freaking hard it is to try and blind fit the 2 tank vent valve lines and get a big 'ol meaty arm up above the tank with it lifted about 3/4 of the way into place?!?! :upset:

Question: I tested the float on the sending unit before the tank install. With it bottomed out, the gauge was still reading just above the Empty mark. I typically don't let the tank get to 1/8 of a tank and usually fill her back up around 1/4 tank. Is there anyway to adjust the gauge to read properly?

Quote from Kuntryboy816

Question: I tested the float on the sending unit before the tank install. With it bottomed out, the gauge was still reading just above the Empty mark. I typically don't let the tank get to 1/8 of a tank and usually fill her back up around 1/4 tank. Is there anyway to adjust the gauge to read properly?

Lean more to your right.

(Don't think it's adjustable)

Quote from quadna

Lean more to your right.

(Don't think it's adjustable)

Is that considered a "gangsta lean"?? When I was checking over it, I didn't see anything on the sending unit that would allow me to adjust it. Sometimes my guage needles stick and I need to pull the cluster and clean it so we'll see how that works.

Quote from Kuntryboy816

I tested the float on the sending unit before the tank install. With it bottomed out, the gauge was still reading just above the Empty mark. I typically don't let the tank get to 1/8 of a tank and usually fill her back up around 1/4 tank. Is there anyway to adjust the gauge to read properly?

Was the float bottomed out or the actual potentiometer on the sender? You can tweak the rod and/or the stops on the sender to change the value....you need to use a multimeter to determine the resistance at the full and empty position and compare that to the values for the gauge. 0 ohms is full for a YJ and 88 ohms is empty...looks like you aren't seeing a full 88 ohms of resistance.

--Ian

Quote from clendaniel

Was the float bottomed out or the actual potentiometer on the sender? You can tweak the rod and/or the stops on the sender to change the value....you need to use a multimeter to determine the resistance at the full and empty position and compare that to the values for the gauge. 0 ohms is full for a YJ and 88 ohms is empty...looks like you aren't seeing a full 88 ohms of resistance.

--Ian

I'm going to go with "potentiometer" only bc I like saying that word. I had the sender out of the tank and the wires hooked up. I turned the key fwd to power up the gauges and then moved the float by hand as I watched the fuel gauge. I had the float and arm it was attached to were down as far as thet would go to simulate an empty tank (E\\ <-needle almost touching the E line but not quite). I didn't see anywhere that the arm could be moved any further where it connected to the electronic portion of the sender. I could move the float up and watch the needle go over to Full.. well actually past Full.. so that was why I was thinking maybe there could be an adjustment at the gauge itself. The needle does drop down to E when I turn the Jeep off. I'm just figureing out continuity and getting a 12v reading and now y'all want me to figure out resistance and ohms and whatnot!

The tank is already back in the Jeep so I'll try cleaning the cluster's ribbon and see if that changes anything. I'm not ready to cut a trapdoor hole in the tub to access the sender unit just yet so I'll stick with my 1/4 tank refill rule at the moment. Thanks for the lesson though, Ian.

Some times the tanks bow up in the middle and cause a false reading. I assume u cleaned the new skid real well so they was no dirt packed in therem

Quote from astape

Some times the tanks bow up in the middle and cause a false reading. I assume u cleaned the new skid real well so they was no dirt packed in therem

Yessir! I cleaned the rubber mat and the inside of the tank skid very well. There was more than a bit of rust as well so I went to town on it with the Rustoleum! Used half a can just on the inside of the skid. I don't care what it looks like since no one will ever see it.

Quote from Kuntryboy816

Speaking of tubes, do y'all know how freaking hard it is to try and blind fit the 2 tank vent valve lines and get a big 'ol meaty arm up above the tank with it lifted about 3/4 of the way into place?!?! :upset:

Yes...unfortunately. That's when I started using a floor jack to do the lifting. You have to maneuver it a bit to get the fill tubes over the leaf spring but once that's done just jack it up a little, check the alignment and the sending unit wires and hoses, jack up a little more....shove it this way a tad and that way a tad....then jack up the rest of the way. Much easier since you don't have to support the weight.

Mine's been off for a few weeks. I did just take the doors off this week though. Will probably put the top back on tonight because of the rain tomorrow.