Yea I have . lol
Its not the joints that are worn out its the holes in the arms where the bolts pass through. The factory bolts are smaller then the hole and it lets the arm move around just enough that the bolts keep coming loose and it eggs out the holes.
Yea I have . lol
Its not the joints that are worn out its the holes in the arms where the bolts pass through. The factory bolts are smaller then the hole and it lets the arm move around just enough that the bolts keep coming loose and it eggs out the holes.
Not sure I'm understanding you.
The only thing in the CA that the bolt passes through is the center section of the flex joint.
The only other holes that would come into play are the CA brackets themselves.
I've had mine for like 4 years and they've never come loose.
Sorry for hijacking your thread Klarissa, but it looks like you got your answer you were looking for.
The center ball where the bolt passes through on both front arms. the busting sides are ok its just the joint side that is doing it.
The center ball where the bolt passes through on both front arms. the busting sides are ok its just the joint side that is doing it.
Rebuild kits aren't that expensive and would make the suspension feel a lot tighter.
FWIW, I went through a couple rubber bushing sets before switching to the ball style joint on my long arm and will never go back. The only time they need to be re-adjusted is if I really abuse them. Otherwise, they stay tight.
I'm considering going with a clayton kit this summer, but I can't convince myself that longrms are going to be worth it at 3"s of lift. Especially when the money would be better spent on a rear axle upgrade.
And I would never long arm anything under 4.5" of lift. I just don't see the benefit.
But to the OP, Clayton is a great set-up from a great company. Good luck with everything Diablo.
I will have 4.5" - 5.5" inches when everything is said and done. Don't worry about the lift height guys.
I found a taker on the welding aspect of this job. Thanks for all the input guys! If you have anything else to add feel free. I appreciate it. 
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I haven't had good experiences with their customer service so I refuse to buy anything of importance from them. I just picked up a set of their springs for cheaper than you can get one pair for, but when it comes to things like control arms I won't buy from them.
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum…-express-long-arm-928832/
How I feel isn't based on that thread or anything else I've read about RE, but it doesn't help either.
this is exactly why i dont want any RE or clayton arm with a nut or threaded tube welded to it, failure points is the name of the game and the new Tera stuff is just threaded tubes, still on the same joints since day one minus rubber OE bushings of course
As stated, stock skid is able to be run after being notched, but it does make it a bit weaker. Would be fine as long as you do not beat on it.
Clayton stuff is nice, I beat the fuck out of mine pretty regularly. I bent a johnny joint, and that has been in.
Welded tube-sert vs threaded tube.... Its all a personal preference as long as the threads are cut correctly into a tube. A welded tube-sert is a very structurally sound way to run it.
Welding it all on is not hard, but it should be done by a capable welder. A lot of stress is put through the mounts and if done imporoperly, it could end very badly. Make sure who you have weld it up does it right.
Shock relocation - well worth the money for some lower shock mounts and some F-250 shock towers. Easy and you gain a lot of handling from it. As far as "shaving" an 8.8 housing to run a sway bar, thats all sort of BS. I had mine with nothing out out of it and ran a stock sway bar on it with no issues. And I am kind of lost with you saying that your brackets ned to be redone to run a long arm... What brackets are those? You get rid of brackets with the clayton kit, but I don't understand where having to redo some brackets to work with your short arm turns into going to a long arm. But to each their own. Just sounds like to me that someone fucked up the original brackets.
Don't make any of it harder than it needs to be. Be very particular with who you hav welding it all on. Make sure that they know that the mounts are not universal and they belong in certain spots and need to be on the correct side of the vehicle.
Shock relocation - well worth the money for some lower shock mounts and some F-250 shock towers. Easy and you gain a lot of handling from it. As far as "shaving" an 8.8 housing to run a sway bar, thats all sort of BS. I had mine with nothing out out of it and ran a stock sway bar on it with no issues. And I am kind of lost with you saying that your brackets ned to be redone to run a long arm... What brackets are those? You get rid of brackets with the clayton kit, but I don't understand where having to redo some brackets to work with your short arm turns into going to a long arm. But to each their own. Just sounds like to me that someone (censored)ed up the original brackets.
I tried to put the stock sway bar on and it hits the diff.
The guy I bought the axle from had it set up to run an RE long arm kit I believe. The pinion angle is set wrong for my Jeep. I figured instead of taking all the brackets off and relocating them for a proper angle for my Jeep on short arms and then have to do it all over again with long arms, I'd just go to long arms and save doing it twice. I realize I could just buy different uppers (my adjustables won't adjust far enough out for the angle I need), but to me that defeats the purpose. My 8.8 came to me free set up the way it is now so I had no say in the brackets being welded to specifications for my Jeep. Anyway, I'd rather have it set up correctly.
Don't make any of it harder than it needs to be. Be very particular with who you hav welding it all on. Make sure that they know that the mounts are not universal and they belong in certain spots and need to be on the correct side of the vehicle.
I'm not worried about the competence of the installer. If all goes well, it looks like Aaron will be welding it up for me.
Thanks for your input, Ed. 
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