I can do it depending on the time frame. I will be busy the rest of the winter trying to get my rig ready for the WErock season, but i can probably find time for a day of welding. Not sure what it would cost, but I am sure I am a lot cheaper then a shop. When are you thinking about doing the install, begining or March?
Aaron
i can do welding also i have tthe bigest wleder u get get for a regular 120 outlet let me know im most likely going to be at the meeting sunday in dover
First, great choice on kits, all the cool people run Clayton.
Second, while it isn't hard as lifts go, you definitely want someone with some experience (like Aaron) along for the ride. Especially if you add the bracket relocation kit which I highly recommend and have. Oh, and add the rear shock kit as well because the outboarding helps greatly, but don't ditch the rear swaybar. ;D There are some potential clearance issues that an experienced person will be able to avoid. And don't forget the exhaust work which can be a little tricky if you don't drop it right after the skid (which I do and have had no issues with). And I highly recommend getting the Clayton skid system also. And no, I don't get a cut of Clayton's sales, but maybe I should. ;D
This going on a Rubi? If not, I will have front and rear 2006 Rubi D44 axles geared 4.88 and all set up for a Clayton LA with the bracket relo, Currie steering, and some other odds and ends for sale in a couple months... 
So wait, did you actually ask for any of this "advice"? Hahaha But seriously, if you need pictures of anything just let me know...
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First, great choice on kits, all the cool people run Clayton.
Second, while it isn't hard as lifts go, you definitely want someone with some experience (like Aaron) along for the ride. Especially if you add the bracket relocation kit which I highly recommend and have. Oh, and add the rear shock kit as well because the outboarding helps greatly, but don't ditch the rear swaybar. ;D There are some potential clearance issues that an experienced person will be able to avoid. And don't forget the exhaust work which can be a little tricky if you don't drop it right after the skid (which I do and have had no issues with). And I highly recommend getting the Clayton skid system also. And no, I don't get a cut of Clayton's sales, but maybe I should. ;D
This going on a Rubi? If not, I will have front and rear 2006 Rubi D44 axles geared 4.88 and all set up for a Clayton LA with the bracket relo, Currie steering, and some other odds and ends for sale in a couple months...
So wait, did you actually ask for any of this "advice"? Hahaha But seriously, if you need pictures of anything just let me know...
I may be interested in these depending on the time frame and available cash.
I will start another thread in a bit so as not to hijack this one. ;D
I will start another thread in a bit so as not to hijack this one. ;D
You going to trail rig, or gonna keep it a DD ?
You going to trail rig, or gonna keep it a DD ?
Keeping DD - D60's, 37's, 5.13's, ARB's, Hi-Steer w/Crossover... ;D
Rubi 44 front with 4.88s would be nice. Not much of an upgrade though (not to me anyway). For the price most people ask I'd rather get a more heavier duty axle. If your price isn't half bad, I may just take you up on that. It'd be hard for me to want to take out my HP30 that I just put in though. 
I was just going to buy the upgrade kit for now. Do I need to buy their belly pan straight away or can it work with the stock pan until I feel like dropping another $500+? I don't think I wheel this hard enough to outboard the shocks just yet. I was just going to treat myself to long arms since I've wanted them for a long time. I was thinking everything else can wait. Exhaust relocation isn't a big deal. I need a whole new system as it is since I still have the crappy OEM exhaust. 
You guys are going to hate this, but I don't run either sway bar. The front hasn't been connected since I put the disconnects on (why did I even bother?) and the rear hasn't been connected since the 8.8 went in. The housing needs to be shaved otherwise it'd be on there. It's not a big deal to me right now and I drove it to Myrtle Beach and back with no issues. I think I'd notice it more if I had softer springs. I plan on putting the rear swaybar back in whenever these long arms get installed.
And don't forget the exhaust work which can be a little tricky if you don't drop it right after the skid (which I do and have had no issues with).
What are your plans for getting thru inspection ?
What are your plans for getting thru inspection ?
Don't ask, don't tell.
Mine's been through inspection twice like that. Lucky? Likely. But as long as it scans clean and isn't obnoxiously loud they don't seem to have issue. A 'real' exhaust is on the list but things keep getting put in front of it...
--Ian
yea ur exhaust went thru cause you didnt go to the dover inspection they are strict down there
What are your plans for getting thru inspection ?
Ask me in 2011 because until then I don't care... ;D
Ask me in 2011 because until then I don't care... ;D
And actually, I was referring to the fact that I have never had exhaust fume issues in the cab as some people, generally Internet Researchers who don't have the setup, claim is always the case. ;D I know it will likely have to be re-routed for inspection, then re-routed again for another 2 years...
my exhaust is also cut off at the belly pan with a turn down... no real need to go any further
90* turn down right after the skid
Anyone want to answer my question that I asked about using this kit with the stock skid?
Anyone want to answer my question that I asked about using this kit with the stock skid?
Yeah, IIRC you can without any modifications. ;D
I plan on putting the rear swaybar back in whenever these long arms get installed.
It is real easy to do. Mine just uses some RE extended links and the stock bar...
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