So yesterday on the way to the Qtec sale, I blew the ujoint on the rear driveshaft at the pinion yoke. The straps were still tight and in place but I lost the cap on the one side. The small retainer tab on the pinion yoke broke off on one side. I just noticed it as I was reinstalling the driveshaft with a new ujoint and new straps. Question is, will the ujoint be ok without that retaining tab or will the cap eventually work it's way off again? Do I need to now replace the pinion yoke as well? I need an answer ASAP as this is my daily driver. I drove home on the front shaft from PA but I'm not sure how safe that is to continue doing so if needed.
Urgent issup -FIXED
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Yokes are pretty cheap.
I wouldn't chance it for long.
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You could throw a tack weld or two on it in the meanwhile until you get another yoke.
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Remove the old yoke and put the new one on with a breaker bar. You will not beable to put enough force on it to affect the bearing preload. Just make it as tight as u can no need for a new crush sleave.
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Thanks for the info Aaron!
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When I redid my front pinion seal I marked a paint line across the pinion and nut, just tightened back up until everything lined back up...
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When I redid my front pinion seal I marked a paint line across the pinion and nut, just tightened back up until everything lined back up...
Yes, that was the general rule of thumb in most of the videos. I figured that would be the best way to ensure it's all back on exactly how it came off. Did you have to use a puller to get the yoke out? If so, was it a necessity or just makes the removal easier? I've seen it used in all of the videos I've watched on Youtube. Not sure if I should buy one just to have it or rent it from AZone...
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Yes, that was the general rule of thumb in most of the videos. I figured that would be the best way to ensure it's all back on exactly how it came off. Did you have to use a puller to get the yoke out? If so, was it a necessity or just makes the removal easier? I've seen it used in all of the videos I've watched on Youtube. Not sure if I should buy one just to have it or rent it from AZone...Everyone I've done came right off.
You will need a decent impact to get the nut off though.
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50\50 on the need of a puller. Most tj yokes come off with a few wacks of the hammer. Most jk's require a puller. A puller should only be around $20 and is a good tool to have.
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If you really load it up you will strip the main screw. At that point just toss it in the trash!!
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U know sears has decent quality craftsman pullers in stock. I get a few years out of them before they strip out and then they replace it.
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A big trick to using pullers is to put some load on it, smack the side of the stuck piece with a hammer, tighten some more, repeat. It will come loose.
And keep the lead screw well lubed.
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Yes, that was the general rule of thumb in most of the videos. I figured that would be the best way to ensure it's all back on exactly how it came off. Did you have to use a puller to get the yoke out? If so, was it a necessity or just makes the removal easier? I've seen it used in all of the videos I've watched on Youtube. Not sure if I should buy one just to have it or rent it from AZone...
No a couple taps with a dead blow hammer and it came right off....
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