Rocker guards

  • Okay so I may be going a little extreme but I want to do this correct the first time so that there's no rattling/squeaking from an improper install.


    1. Should I use the jack to seat the rocker as tight to the tub as possible before I drill the mounting holes?


    2. I have a rubber mat that I was going to cut to size as a gasket between the rocker and the tub. Necessary? If so, should I cut for just the face of the tub or enough to cover like an inch or two under the corner of the tub?


    Here's a few pics of me mocking it up this evening. The drivers side looks like it sits a little higher and closer to the bottom of the door than the passenger side does. Any thoughts as to why?





    Difference between sides..


    Your life is made up of 2 dates and a dash... make the most of the dash!


  • Okay so I may be going a little extreme but I want to do this correct the first time...


    Nothing wrong with that.



    1. Should I use the jack to seat the rocker as tight to the tub as possible before I drill the mounting holes?


    A jack is probably not necessary, but it's not a bad idea. If the clamps you are using are holding it tight to where it mounts, using a jack to hold it tighter won't necessarily make for a better install. If it's properly aligned when driling the holes - regardless of how it's held in place - the bolts will pull it tight to where the finished product should be. Even so, I am a little obsessive/compulsive, so I would use the jack.


    On second thought (I suspect you have already checked this), but maybe the clamps are not holding it tight enough to where it mounts, and that could be the reason they appear uneven left vs right. So with that in mind: yeah, jack.

    ~ JD
    * WARNING - The above post may contain trace elements of biting sarcasm. Those with known sensitivities should avoid staring directly at it.


  • 2. I have a rubber mat that I was going to cut to size as a gasket between the rocker and the tub. Necessary?


    Probably not. If you are not absolutely sure this rubber mat will not dry rot over time, then no. If you are not absolutely sure this rubber mat is not at all porous and it will not absorb moisture and cause rust on your rockers over time, then absolutely no. Even if it is not porous, unless you are absolutely sure the rubber will not trap moisture between the rubber and the rockers hence causing rust over time, then absolutely no.


    So no.

    ~ JD
    * WARNING - The above post may contain trace elements of biting sarcasm. Those with known sensitivities should avoid staring directly at it.


  • The drivers side looks like it sits a little higher and closer to the bottom of the door than the passenger side does.


    Just from the pics, it looks negligible. No one will ever see both sides at once. So don't sweat it.


    However:
    Me = OCD = it does not matter if no one will ever see both sides at once, because I will know they are not symmetrical = use fender washers on the side that sits higher so as to lower it a bit to make both sides equal.

    ~ JD
    * WARNING - The above post may contain trace elements of biting sarcasm. Those with known sensitivities should avoid staring directly at it.

    Edited once, last by altierior ().

  • Thanks for the info. I'll run w/o any gasket for a while as I'm not sure about the mat I have and it's too thick to use.


    Think I should replace the fender before I install the rockers? I have the fenders but don't know how involved it is...


    I really like the look w/o the flares. Too bad, I guess, since I can't leave it that way.

    Your life is made up of 2 dates and a dash... make the most of the dash!


  • Nah, I know how crappy it is to have to replace a windshield.. don't want to be the cause of that to somebody else if I can help it.


    I never understood wanting the ricer look on a Jeep.


    Not to mention if you tend to drive with your arm out the window, sooner or later you are going to take a rock to it. I get them occasionally even with my tires pretty well protected.

  • Before I put wider flares on my YJ the biggest complaint I had was road spray on the inside of the windshield (yes, it had to be raining and the top half or the entire door had to be off ;) )

    '88 YJ, 4" suspension, 2"body lift, 456 locked F & R, 35-12.50-15 BFG KM2s on Cragar Soft 8's
    &'03 KJ, 2"+ shackle lift, armor, BBs, 245-70-16 BFG A/T TAs

  • Dunno, never seen 'em sticking out like that but I've seen them canted at weird angles...


    Well anywho, I got the rockers finished yesterday. It's pretty straight forward but I took my time and triple checked everything and then checked again. Had my neighbor and the wife give it the asthetic nod of approval and then started drilling. The hardware comes with short and long bolts.. short for sides and long for the bottom. Well the long ones on the front protrude about 1.5" above the floor and the back two don't make it through the floor. So I stopped @ Lowe's today on the way home from church and picked up the needed hardware. If I get a break in the rain I'll finish those up.


    Here's a couple picks I took this morning. Sorry for the crappy quality.




    Your life is made up of 2 dates and a dash... make the most of the dash!

  • Now I just need to figure out what to do about my flares. I was thinking of using a heat gun to try and mold the lower ends around the rocker guards. I'm not quite sure how well that will work so another option was to trim them flush @ the top of the rocker guard. Any suggestions?

    Your life is made up of 2 dates and a dash... make the most of the dash!


  • The hardware comes with short and long bolts.. short for sides and long for the bottom. Well the long ones on the front protrude about 1.5" above the floor and the back two don't make it through the floor.


    I wonder if the hardware kit that was provided happened to be the TJ hardware kit? I'm not sure what the tub floor is like on a YJ, but on a TJ there is a false bottom between the seat and the rocker area where it ends up being about 2" of empty space. Longer bolts are provided for that area as you have to drill a hole in the bottom of the tub, go past the empty space, and then drill out through the top of the empty space. Then the short bolts go in the front where it's just one layer thick. Just a thought. :shrug:


    Here's a picture from when I lined my tub to show the area I'm talking about - you can see it goes directly under the seat from one side to the other. It is where the longer bolts are typically used.


  • Now I just need to figure out what to do about my flares. I was thinking of using a heat gun to try and mold the lower ends around the rocker guards. I'm not quite sure how well that will work so another option was to trim them flush @ the top of the rocker guard. Any suggestions?


    I trimmed mine.

    Member since 2000

    Jeeps Owned'79 CJ5:

    Specs-

    - 258 I6

    - '93 Cherokee fuel injection and HO head,

    - bored 30 over

    - with 4x4 cam

    T18 tranny with granny low / Dana 18 t-case

    Dana 44 front and back from late '70s Wagoneer, both locked and loaded with 4.88 gears

    SOA on modified YJ springs with shackle reversa

    Fiberglass tub with 6 point cage mounted to the frame


    2015 Grand Cherokee Limited
    Spec-

    Quadratec Floor mats

  • On the underside of the rocker guards, there's 6 bolt holes. For the four in the front, you're supposed to use 2 of them staggered. The guard sits against the bottom of the tub so the 1" bolts are perfect. For the rear two bolts, they are supposed to come up through the hump where the seats bolt in. It is a doubled layer of metal but the 2" bolts don't rise through the top layer. They are just about level with the metal.. not even enough to get threaded even w/o the washer.. about 1/2" short.

    Your life is made up of 2 dates and a dash... make the most of the dash!

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