Recommended exhaust shop

If you don't need a receipt the Meineke on rt 4 near 273 will usually work for cash at a lower price.

Midas - On Kirkwood near Prices Corner.
998-0533

2nd comment for the Midas on Kirkwood/Newport Gap Pike. Fair rates and a few of the guys are into Jeeps.

Quote from cj8

Midas - On Kirkwood near Prices Corner.
998-0533

Is this the one across from the VA? If so this is where I got my Thrush welded on. They do good work I have gotten work done on 3 vehicles there.

I would not go to the Midas on 273 off Salem Church Road. Guy does cheaper work after hours in cash but you are getting cheaper pipe that will last about a year.

The guy on Kirkwood HWY across from the VA is a honest guy. He also owns the Midway Muffler Shop in Elsmere and I would go there. His stuff is garantee and Bush is as honest as they come...

I like Maniac Muffler on Boxwood Rd.

I tried the exhaust shops on Kirkwood Hwy in Elsmere and got a bad feeling from all of them. Midway said it would take at least 3 hours to cut my Charger's exhaust and weld in cutouts (Midas was done in under 75 minutes from giving them the keys). Monro wouldn't even give an estimate because they were busy lying to the women there buying tires (the one across from the VA).

Meineke is the one across from the VA, but I think they were too busy or something when I stopped in.

Another vote for Midway Muffler here. They replaced the exhaust on an old Chevy truck I used to have. They ran a true dual all the way from the headers back. The guy even custom cut and welded on some 3" angled tips at no charge just b/c he wanted it to look cool.

I stopped in at Bear Muffler last year to get an estimate on having the entire exhaust (-) the manifold on the YJ replaced. Guy was very sketchy with his info and kept telling me to order the parts and he'd do the install. Then he quoted me $300 for the labor.... to bolt it in. No welding...not even replacing 2 of the missing hangers. I told him if I was sourcing parts then he was crazy but if he felt up to ordering parts and welding then I would gladly pay $300. He told me he didn't have the time. YRMV

Quote from johnnyo

Joel, How did you do your exhaust. I've been looking online and some are replacing the resonator with straight pipe. Others are putting the muffler at the resonator location and dropping the exhaust under the jeep instead of the back. I'm not concerned with clearance in the back. Any advice before I talk with the shop.

I did not touch the resonator. I just replaced the muffler and put the new one in the stock location. It looks a lot like the Gibson or mag aglow set ups. I can post pics and maybe a sound clip later.

Its 10 minutes past wilmington in aston PA but Mighty Muffler is awesome! especially for custom work. I got a custom cat back magnaflow system there thats all high clearance with the pipe going over the frame rail and out of the rear quarter panel. They prefer to do stainless pipe and its all mandrel bends done in house. Ask for Nelson if you check it out, he's the owner.

http://www.delawareja.com/forum/index.php?topic=37718.0
I had put one up on my introduction thread. I have more but they arent on photobucket. I could probably post some later. It came out nice though. I have a flush rail to rail t-case skid so Ive had issues with my exhaust since I put that and the sye on, the exhaust used to hit and vibrate. Plus Ive pinched the exhaust pipe shut wheeling and ended up with a turn down after the mufler wich is just loud and annoying. Anyway he did all new hangers and it came out great. To get the pipe over the frame rail you need at least an inch body lift, enough wheel backspacing and you have to loose the plastic inner fender and also notch the tub a little bit. Could be an issue with years that have the charcoal canister if you wanna go out of the fender also.

bit of a ride but scotti muffler in middletown and a magnaflow muffler better fuel mileage power and lifetime warranty

Quote from Tonka

http://www.delawareja.com/forum/index.php?topic=37718.0
I had put one up on my introduction thread. I have more but they arent on photobucket. I could probably post some later. It came out nice though. I have a flush rail to rail t-case skid so Ive had issues with my exhaust since I put that and the sye on, the exhaust used to hit and vibrate. Plus Ive pinched the exhaust pipe shut wheeling and ended up with a turn down after the mufler wich is just loud and annoying. Anyway he did all new hangers and it came out great. To get the pipe over the frame rail you need at least an inch body lift, enough wheel backspacing and you have to loose the plastic inner fender and also notch the tub a little bit. Could be an issue with years that have the charcoal canister if you wanna go out of the fender also.

Thats wild. Any exhaust issues with the top down???

I'm not to worried about the body panel as much as I am with the heat next to the rear tire and the exhaust fumes getting into the cab area with either the side windows off or the top down.

But I agree, looks awesome. I was thinking when I install my 304 that I would run the exhaust pipe up in the back like they did to the army jeeps...

Thanks guys! Id been messing around with this idea for close to 2 years before I finally pulled the trigger on it. No issues, in fact I had more issues with exhaust fumes in the cab with the stock pipe when my rear window was open with the top up, it seemed to get sucked inside. Then after I did my sye the whole pipe wouldent fit so I cut it off and had a turn down pipe right after the muffler, that was awfull for vibes and the fumes would come right through the floor when I wasent moving. With the new setup its been good, the panel doesent get hot either but there is also a doubled tip on the exhaust pipe so even the tip doesent get hot. Originally I put exhaust wrap on it but the first time I took it wheeling like that It all tore off. When the tire is fully stuffed it just barely touches the pipe but not enough to cause any issues. The original design was to run the pipe along the top contour of the frame rail wich would have prevented any contact but when I went to pick ip up it was run straight next to the rail.

my dad is the manager at the meineke on rt 4 by 273, they do good work there. They do give better prices if you pay cash, but still offer warrenty on the work.