Brake Lines

SG1998 · Mar 2nd 2016

So I was about to leave work this afternoon, sitting in the parking lot, and my brake pedal went to the floor (98 TJ). I blew a line up front and it was spraying all over. I haven't had any experience with brake lines yet. I'm guessing this could have been a disaster if this had happened coming down 95 this morning???? Is there any way I would have seen this coming or known it was about to happen?? Do they start as a slow leak? I haven't seen any fluids leaking recently. The jeep has been sitting in the garage for the past couple months and hasn't really been driven. Got it out cause it was nice the past few days. Could sitting for a while make a difference?

I ended up limping it to the nearest shop using the E brake to get the line repaired. That was sketchy. The lines were pretty old. Shady Luke repaired one for me when he did my frame work. I should have replaced them all then. Sorry for the rant. Just looking for some knowledge.

Any recommendations on new lines (braided, pre-bent, etc.) for the future?

WILLYN · Mar 3rd 2016

Brake lines rust from the inside and the outside. The fluid sucks up moisture and starts the internal rusting. The other lines should be replaced, and the system should be flushed with new fluid. Dual master cylinders have been required since the late sixties. With dual, you should have half of your brakes when you have a failure like that. With the old single cylinder type it was often truly catastrophic. If the petal went to the floor with only one line broken there may be an issue with your master cylinder. They are not too expensive, all things considered.
Stainless lines are available and they rust less, but can be harder to work with. Braided stainless lines are rubber inside, but to be legal they must be DOT approved. Not that anyone is checking.

Erock · Mar 3rd 2016

was it a hard line or a soft line? sometimes the soft can dry-rot from the outside like a tire. you can inspect for cracks.

also, changing the fluid as stated above will remove accumulated moisture and prevent/slow rust from the inside.

**clendaniel** · Mar 3rd 2016

You can buy pre-bent sets in both steel and stainless...they're an easy solution.

Rolls of line and bending them yourself is cheaper if you feel adventurous and have the time. Another option to consider, though, is the copper-nickel lines. Like stainless they don't corrode like steel lines but they're much easier to work with than stainless and steel.

--Ian

**deadfeat** · Mar 3rd 2016

The bending isn't too bad, but hard to look as good as the pre bent lines. The hardest part is making a good flair. The cheapest, easy way is to remove each line, measure with a string and buy a pre flared, straight brake line with fittings and bend it yourself with a hand bender using the original as a template.

**Slimer** · Mar 3rd 2016

Hard part of putting bent lines back in is figuring out how to get them in; because of the bends, you have to manipulate the line up, down, spin it around, and what not to work the bends through the holes in the cross member and what not. Flaring the lines isn't hard to do with the flaring tools Check Harbor Freight for a set.

**deadfeat** · Mar 3rd 2016

Quote from Slimer

Hard part of putting bent lines back in is figuring out how to get them in; because of the bends, you have to manipulate the line up, down, spin it around, and what not to work the bends through the holes in the cross member and what not. Flaring the lines isn't hard to do with the flaring tools Check Harbor Freight for a set.

[font=verdana, arial, helvetica, sans-serif][size=2px]I've had mixed success flaring ends, I do agree fitting pre-bent is hard. One other option is to make the complex hard line a two pieces and join with a [/size]coupler[size=2px].[/size][/font]

[font=verdana, arial, helvetica, sans-serif][size=2px] [/size][/font]

**shadyluke** · Mar 3rd 2016

Quote from deadfeat

[font=verdana, arial, helvetica, sans-serif][size=2px]I've had mixed success flaring ends, I do agree fitting pre-bent is hard. One other option is to make the complex hard line a two pieces and join with a [/size]coupler[size=2px].[/size][/font]

[font=verdana, arial, helvetica, sans-serif][size=2px] [/size][/font]

To me, couplers are just another place to leak. I bought my flare kit at Napa a decade ago and have made countless flares in steel line. I've only ever cut two flares off to redo.

SG1998 · Mar 3rd 2016

Thanks for all the responses! It was a hard line. It was cracked in a spot that was very close to the steering shaft. Maybe it rubbed against it somehow. But yes, the pedal went to the floor and I had no brake pressure at all. I decided to just get the shop to replace the lines. I would probably just screw it up. It cost me, but I feel a little safer having someone do it that knows what they are doing.

**Slimer** · Mar 3rd 2016

Quote from shadyluke

To me, couplers are just another place to leak.

I agree. Best not to add any additional joints. When I replaced them with my old body still mounted I ran them along the frame and went up over the middle cross brace. When I put the fiberglass body on I ran all new lines and went through the holes in the cross brace. Made it a lot easier to do so obviously.

Brake Lines

Participate now!

Share